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Very Stuck Swingarm Bolt _ Drz400


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#1 dapleb

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Posted 06 April 2016 - 02:53 pm

This is a proper wan.

Nut off no probs, bolt jammed solid.

Frame is recessed so no easy access to either end of bolt.

Bolt "head" is just a flat metal section.... So cant use socket to get it turning to help break it loose.

It goes through swingam, enjun and frame ... So not much stripping down can be done to access it.

The bolt is hollow, so planned to make a puller that goes through the bolt, measured and got a 10mm threaded bar ----- the bloody internal diameter changes at the threaded end so 10mm wouldn't fit through. Haaa

Used 8mm and made a puller. It continually stripped the nuts. beefed up the design and thought I had it beaten as press moved ... But it was just distorting the nuts and making a beautiful imprint of the bolt end. All of this was done with shock whacking on t'other endwhile under load. No joy.

Next .... A 10mm press. I ground down the bar at one end so it went through the reduced diameter section,welded a nut on, press made.... And .... It stripped the thread on that too!!!! I have it set back up and leaving under pressure and soaked in monkey piss overnight ... As I have done already a few times this week.

Next is ermm----- can only think to remove subframe and shock to try and get some slight access for heat.

The enjun section that the bolt goes through is aluminium so worried about this ending in disaster if much more force used. Gulp!

Any ideas? Did wonder if building some kind of slide hammer might help.

... Or maybe send the boike off for 8weeks of spark erosion. :-)
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#2 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 06 April 2016 - 03:26 pm

Call me a defeatist but, sacrificial swinger ? :unsure2:


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#3 dapleb

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Posted 06 April 2016 - 03:35 pm

Think I would even struggle to access it to cut off SR but might end up trying it! Have a spare swingarm. The plan WAS to swap em and service the orig then swap em back..

Done some reading and it seems there are steel inserts in the enjun and this is where it gets stuck. Seems the puller has been done before and worked for them. Others have smashed on it with a massive sledge!!! would be worried about frame/enjun damage doin this.

Also heard the candle trickl before of wicking some wax oop the thread ... Never needed to try this one ... But now might be the time. Though its only partially threaded anyway.
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If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

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#4 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 06 April 2016 - 03:43 pm

Butcher, breaker, candlestick maker. :lol:

 

If it is the steel inserts it sounds like a right royal pain to sort out.  Could you not tap the end of the swinger bolt and put a bolt in that to get the swinger bolt spinning ?  Might help with monkey piss ingress if you can spin it.


Mk2a 2000 in Silver. Top end Refurb @ 41100 miles, Scottoiler, Renthal Road High Bars, Up & Back Bar Risers, Bellypan, DL650 Handguards, Capt. Picard Bar Ends, House of Henty SS Wheel spacers, New Seat Cover Fitted. 58 MPG !!  Now owned by chrisbee !   Studley's mk2a Bloggerydoodaah !  Photos of my first MK1  Photos of my MK2a  TPLQHCSRSFC No. 1 Fan


#5 dablik

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Posted 06 April 2016 - 04:08 pm

Stick ya tongue in the leccy socket then give the swingy a good lickin to shock it to buggery  :D

 

Sounds like a bad un dappers, wots about a bit of heat then freeze spray, shall i come and breathe onnit for ya  :)


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#6 dapleb

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Posted 06 April 2016 - 04:11 pm

The "head" of the bolt sits in its own recess within the frame recess ----- so even with summat welded or threaded to the bolt, you couldnt turn the bolt!!

I know, they really put a lot of thought in to this thing never coming out if seized. Plus it seems they are often seized from near new as Suzuki wanted to save on grease costs lolzio. So chances on a 15year old wan hmm!
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If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

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#7 dablik

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Posted 06 April 2016 - 04:18 pm

Oh dear, sounds like you need help from you know who......hope you get it sorted fella.


Bigred mk1 R1 Calipers- Braided lines- Givi wing rack-Crash bungs- Hi vis bullets-PR2's- and a hoot to ride.

Quad 900 Silver Laser duo tech pipes-Scott oiler-Engine crash bars- Radiator mounted see me ring LED's-Datatool system 3 alarm -Centre stand- Extender fender-Renthal bars-Handle bar risers-Mirror extenders-BMW GS Handgaurds-Acumen uprated horn & Nautilus-Stainless steel Radiator guard-Givi wing rack-OEM screen-Yammy touring screen-MRA Vario-MRA Double bubble cut down for fast as fk riding-Tiger screen-Tank protector-Stomp grip panels-Optimate lead   Gone to Heaven  :sorry: 

 

1991 MK1 in need of some TLC watch this space   :) Sorted and on the Road Mick  :P  :P it's the bike that Jack built  ;) Gone to Heaven  :wub: 

 


#8 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 06 April 2016 - 04:29 pm

Drill off the ends of the flat bolt head, allowing for bolt swivelability, and then tap out the bolt ?


Mk2a 2000 in Silver. Top end Refurb @ 41100 miles, Scottoiler, Renthal Road High Bars, Up & Back Bar Risers, Bellypan, DL650 Handguards, Capt. Picard Bar Ends, House of Henty SS Wheel spacers, New Seat Cover Fitted. 58 MPG !!  Now owned by chrisbee !   Studley's mk2a Bloggerydoodaah !  Photos of my first MK1  Photos of my MK2a  TPLQHCSRSFC No. 1 Fan


#9 dapleb

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Posted 06 April 2016 - 04:39 pm

That bolt would be hard as feck to tap I woulda thought SR. These are all good plans though and I am strugglin to think of oubt else!!!

Thought about a massive abba stand sized frame ... Or maybe dynamite!! :-)
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"

If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.

#10 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 06 April 2016 - 04:53 pm

D'ya think some high tensile rod, threaded to 8mm and high tensile nuts might do the trick.  Mr Henty might be able to sort out some rod ?


Mk2a 2000 in Silver. Top end Refurb @ 41100 miles, Scottoiler, Renthal Road High Bars, Up & Back Bar Risers, Bellypan, DL650 Handguards, Capt. Picard Bar Ends, House of Henty SS Wheel spacers, New Seat Cover Fitted. 58 MPG !!  Now owned by chrisbee !   Studley's mk2a Bloggerydoodaah !  Photos of my first MK1  Photos of my MK2a  TPLQHCSRSFC No. 1 Fan


#11 dapleb

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Posted 06 April 2016 - 05:53 pm

Yeah thats a good plan this is just cheapo threaded rod. Might need to get graded stuff if its available in m8/10.
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"

If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.

#12 celticbiker

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Posted 06 April 2016 - 06:31 pm

Might not make much difference but might I suggest duck oil as an alternative to monkey piss.
You wouldn't believe what I've un-seized with that stuff.



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#13 dapleb

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Posted 06 April 2016 - 07:18 pm

Monkey piss is the best stuff I have ever found. But I have some duck oil so might as well rinse some of that in there too. Ta CB.
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"

If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.

#14 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 06 April 2016 - 07:39 pm

Tadaah !  http://www.workshopp...CFVIaGwodAMMJOw

 

Not a bad price either.


Mk2a 2000 in Silver. Top end Refurb @ 41100 miles, Scottoiler, Renthal Road High Bars, Up & Back Bar Risers, Bellypan, DL650 Handguards, Capt. Picard Bar Ends, House of Henty SS Wheel spacers, New Seat Cover Fitted. 58 MPG !!  Now owned by chrisbee !   Studley's mk2a Bloggerydoodaah !  Photos of my first MK1  Photos of my MK2a  TPLQHCSRSFC No. 1 Fan


#15 dablik

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Posted 07 April 2016 - 08:31 am

Geez Studs, not just a handsome bassad, you is a google guru fella  :)


Bigred mk1 R1 Calipers- Braided lines- Givi wing rack-Crash bungs- Hi vis bullets-PR2's- and a hoot to ride.

Quad 900 Silver Laser duo tech pipes-Scott oiler-Engine crash bars- Radiator mounted see me ring LED's-Datatool system 3 alarm -Centre stand- Extender fender-Renthal bars-Handle bar risers-Mirror extenders-BMW GS Handgaurds-Acumen uprated horn & Nautilus-Stainless steel Radiator guard-Givi wing rack-OEM screen-Yammy touring screen-MRA Vario-MRA Double bubble cut down for fast as fk riding-Tiger screen-Tank protector-Stomp grip panels-Optimate lead   Gone to Heaven  :sorry: 

 

1991 MK1 in need of some TLC watch this space   :) Sorted and on the Road Mick  :P  :P it's the bike that Jack built  ;) Gone to Heaven  :wub: 

 


#16 Studley Ramrod

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Posted 07 April 2016 - 09:29 am

Yeah I know, I'm modest too. :D


Mk2a 2000 in Silver. Top end Refurb @ 41100 miles, Scottoiler, Renthal Road High Bars, Up & Back Bar Risers, Bellypan, DL650 Handguards, Capt. Picard Bar Ends, House of Henty SS Wheel spacers, New Seat Cover Fitted. 58 MPG !!  Now owned by chrisbee !   Studley's mk2a Bloggerydoodaah !  Photos of my first MK1  Photos of my MK2a  TPLQHCSRSFC No. 1 Fan


#17 TinTin

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Posted 07 April 2016 - 11:59 am

Looks like your talking heat here. Have you tried wedging a block of wood between the bike and the garage wall and giving the spindle a good wallop with a solid drift and a copper mallet. The copper gives more of a dead blow and more force to what you're pasting IMHO. Got three of em in my box at work for such occasions. Get the lad to swing the biggun these days though. 😅

#18 leehenty

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Posted 07 April 2016 - 07:49 pm

try a big deadblow hammer they have lead shot in them to make the bang count


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#19 MickC

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Posted 08 April 2016 - 10:55 am

Dapers this isnt realy going to help you but I had a KLR650 with the same problem, I ended up using a hydraulic jack to separate the frame by a few mill at the bolt pivot point (hammer drift oil didnt work) hack saw the bolt so I now had the swing arm out the bolt would not move at the local garage under a press (it was seized in the metal bushing in the rear shock pivot which is located in the middle of the swing arm at the bolt end) so I ended up angle grinding it out.As the pivot bearings would have needed replacing it worked out cheaper to get a second hand bolt and pivot which had a good bearing.



#20 dapleb

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Posted 08 April 2016 - 01:34 pm

I fear that might be of use to me Mick. :-) similar to how I remove tdm lower shock bolt.


The weakest part is the aluminium enjun casing so cant really wallop on it with a sledge yamSam as I could easily end up with a scrapped enjun/frame/swinger!!

Just ordered me some graded threaded bar and some stud(ders) nuts for a final puller/shock treatment. When err I mean if this dont work then its remove subframe/shock/linkage/battery/panels/exhaust/.... To try and gain access for heat.
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"

If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117

Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.

Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.


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