Checking oil level
#1
Posted 29 August 2006 - 06:52 pm
This topic may appear to be about a mundane subject but as my early MK2 is my first ever 'non wet sump' bike I feel the need to garner the opinions of those more experienced than I.
I have read with horror about the TDMs thirst for oil and the consequences of not keeping it topped up. I always thought mine does not use oil, it doesn't burn it nor does it leak - but, blinking flip, the level goes down. Or does it? I do top it up so it must go somewhere.
I seem to get different level readings depending on time of day, amount of time since last use, relative air humidity, height above sea level and cleanliness of under pants. Sometimes the window appears full and sometimes empty.
I am interested to know if there is any recommended procedure for checking this? What do you guys and gals think?
All now a fond (very fond) memory. Maybe again some day.
#2
Posted 29 August 2006 - 07:29 pm
Warm the boike up for at least 15 mins.
Sit the bike on a TOTALLY level ground when measuring.
Make sure bike perfectly vertical when measuring.
Without these things you will get varying measurements.
Cheers
dapleb
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#3
Posted 29 August 2006 - 07:32 pm
First, run the engine warm! Not running at idle for some minutes but drive it for a 5 - 7 miles tour.
Then, stop on a level ground, let the engine run on idle for a couple of minutes and stop it. Let it stay in 1st gear.
Put it on the sidestand. Get down on knee, grab the bike and let it lean against you until it reach the balance-point. Then you may "read" the oil level. As the "window" is almost hidden, it can be a bit tricky!
If the oil-level is down to "min" mark I usually add 1dl.
I do as a habbit to always check the oil-level after a trip, the engine is properly warm, I fill up,if necessary and the bike is clear for the next trip.
Be awear of that it "burns" more oil if driven on high revs on "inspired driving" and on track-days.
That's my procedure, others may do it some other way!
Jandreas.
#4
Posted 29 August 2006 - 07:33 pm
On a Mk1 are you supposed to measure it with the dipstick screwed in or just sat on the thread?
Dipstick vs sight glass, the Mk1 scores another point :-D
1992 Mk1, 76k miles, Hagon springs, MTC exhaust, 4½ gears Gone now
2009 900 abs, 42k miles, Yamaha heated grips, double bubble screen, R&G crash bungs, scottoiler, Autocom, 1500 lumen LED spotlights.
#5
Posted 29 August 2006 - 07:42 pm
Dipstick vs sight glass, the Mk1 scores another point :-D
Its dipstick sat on the thread for mkI's.
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#6
Posted 29 August 2006 - 08:31 pm
#7
Posted 29 August 2006 - 09:24 pm
This model has an oil level warning lamp (does'nt it).
Can it be used to warn us of low oil or must we use the traditional method of a dipstick?
I had a FJ1200 many years`ago with an oil level warning lamp which worked ok.
#8
Posted 29 August 2006 - 10:19 pm
This model has an oil level warning lamp (does'nt it).
Can it be used to warn us of low oil or must we use the traditional method of a dipstick?
I had a FJ1200 many years`ago with an oil level warning lamp which worked ok.
Check your oil by sight on the dipstick, those lights are called 'idiot lights' for a reason.
Always tell the truth, it will gratify some of the people and astonish the rest. (Mark Twain)
£
Stebel Nautilus air-horn, Corbin seat, MRA Touring screen, single Delkevic silencer.
"I see by your outfit that you are a spaceman"(MkI (3VD) TDM Review)
Hints for using Carpe-TDM. (photo's, links, etc).
#9
Posted 29 August 2006 - 10:25 pm
Mind you, if there was no oil in it to start with i'm sure you'd find out about it pretty quickly.
Edited by cupasoop, 29 August 2006 - 10:26 pm.
#10
Posted 29 August 2006 - 10:50 pm
#11
Posted 29 August 2006 - 11:05 pm
something else i've been doing wrong..... :doh:
"Never argue with an idiot. They just bring you down to their level and beat you with experience"
My TDM :
Black 1991 850 MK1, 160k+ miles(ish, best guess really, gave up trying to keep count after 3rd set of clocks and 3rd engine), PilotRoad2 tyres, custom stubby exhaust system, bluespot calipers & goodridge braided hoses with dunlopads, maxton forks, Ohlins shock, kedo handguards, stainless TDM grill, Scottoiler with lubetube & dual nozzle thingy, Givi Wingrack2 with E45 & 2xE36s, renntec crash bars, Autocom with blueteeth & PMR radio, TomTom Rider2, Optimate IIIsp, Bagster tank cover, anti-dazzle coating
to fit : led spotlights, heated grips, new braided lines and rear caliper that actually has bleed nipples
Silver-ish 2003 900, 70k miles, PilotRoad3 front tyre (new@65k) & PR2 rear(new at 69k), Renthal 755 bars with KTM handguards, oxford unheated grips, power commander 3usb, scorpion titanium exhausts, standard screen with vario winglet thingy, stainless grill, oem centre stand, bagster tank cover, givi monokey topplate mounted on grabrail with V46 topbox, Givi PL pannier rails with E21s, crash bungs, mirror extender thingys, Halfords Advanced Laser Blue brillance bulbs, 21w led spotlights, touring scottoiler with leehenty dual nozzle, Autocom with blueteeth & PMR radio, TomTom Rider3 Urban, winter style anti-dazzle coating
to fit : led brake light strip, replacement heated grips
current rides : TDM850 3vd/mk1=tourer&scratcher, TRX850=weekend twisty toy, 2003 TDM900=commuter, 2005 TDM900=unmolested. Gone but not forgotton : XTZ750=overland touring toy, GS500e, GS125
If a strange looking truck driver honks at you & gives you the thumbs up, its could be me
#12
Posted 30 August 2006 - 05:50 am
This model has an oil level warning lamp (does'nt it).
Can it be used to warn us of low oil or must we use the traditional method of a dipstick?
I had a FJ1200 many years`ago with an oil level warning lamp which worked ok.
my oil level light has been lit up constantly when the bike is being used, for well over a year now, so they can be faulty, I'm pretty sure the problem lies with a failed level sender unit in the oil tank, as the only thing that makes the light go out is changing the oil, the light goes out for about half a mile then comes on and stays on, I kinda like it now, it's all sort of, well um, red really, but it's a very nice shade of red, a sort of ooooooooooooooh mind the tree sort of bluey red without the blue, anyway don't you worry about oil levels on a 900, 'cause the amount of oil you put in the oil tank will be most likely exactly the same amount you'll take out when you change it again after the set amount of mileage, you see the 900's just don't burn oil, no matter how hard they try they can not get their oil to catch fire, when I change my oil it is darkened but you can still see the bottom of the drain pan through it, where usually on other bikes the oil is so blackened that this is impossible, I hope this makes you feel confident about your oil level and if I can be of assistance to any other questions I'm full of interesting variations, just don't ask me how to straighten a length of string as the laughter involved ties me up in knots.
ps. hello Dave284
Edited by laughin in a windstorm, 30 August 2006 - 05:54 am.
the last thing I want is for my family to cry
#13
Posted 30 August 2006 - 06:34 am
I guess that's what made the oil level sensor freak a bit...
Yamaha XT660Z Ténéré '08 + Yamaha TRX850 '97
I'll let go of my throttle when they pry it from my cold, dead hands...
#14
Posted 30 August 2006 - 03:32 pm
All now a fond (very fond) memory. Maybe again some day.
#15
Posted 30 August 2006 - 05:09 pm
Yes.
Some people have stated that they wait five minutes.....I'm not sure what they are waiting for though
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#16
Posted 30 August 2006 - 06:28 pm
Mind you, if there was no oil in it to start with i'm sure you'd find out about it pretty quickly.
I know someone who did that recently on a landrover. Drained the oil and then forgot to put any more in. Drove it for a good half hour before he dented the inside of the crank case with a conrod.
1992 Mk1, 76k miles, Hagon springs, MTC exhaust, 4½ gears Gone now
2009 900 abs, 42k miles, Yamaha heated grips, double bubble screen, R&G crash bungs, scottoiler, Autocom, 1500 lumen LED spotlights.
#17 Guest_GuyGraham_*
Posted 30 August 2006 - 06:39 pm
Some people have stated that they wait five minutes.....I'm not sure what they are waiting for though
the froth to settle on the oil.
Remember oil expands when it gets hot, so it'll read higher after a run.
run it for 2/3 mins from cold, switch off and wait a mniute or so and then check.
Bike must be vertical, I use a paddock stand.
It does seem to wander around a bit, but keep a general eye on it and you can tell when its dropping.
#18
Posted 30 August 2006 - 07:10 pm
Remember oil expands when it gets hot, so it'll read higher after a run.
run it for 2/3 mins from cold, switch off and wait a mniute or so and then check.
Bike must be vertical, I use a paddock stand.
It does seem to wander around a bit, but keep a general eye on it and you can tell when its dropping.
Froth
Its supposed to be measured hot.......you measure the oil once it has expanded.....thats why all dealerships overfill these engines....they fill them from cold after 2/3mins running (if its lucky).
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#19
Posted 30 August 2006 - 07:33 pm
ENGINE OIL LEVEL INSPECTION
Position the motorcycle straight up when inspecting
the oil level.
1. Place the motorcycle on a level surface.
_ After idling the engine for 15 minutes, be sure the
motorcycle is vertical, then check that the oil level
is between the maximum and minimum marks.
_ Place the motorcycle on its centerstand if a centerstand
is equipped. If not, place a suitable
stand under the motorcycle.
2. Inspect:
_ Oil level
Oil level should be between the maximum a
and minimum b marks.
Oil level is below the minimum mark _ Add oil
up to the proper level.
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#20
Posted 30 August 2006 - 07:39 pm
Another thing 'though: Why is it necessary to check when it has just been run? With a wet sump bike you let the oil drain down into the crankcase for a little while before checking to ensure the engine is not overfilled.
Is it true to say that on a dry sump bike all is ok as long as there is some in the oil tank (effectively a header) when warm?
Edited by Jez, 30 August 2006 - 08:06 pm.
All now a fond (very fond) memory. Maybe again some day.
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