There are a total of eighteen parts in the kit inc. washers, nuts, etc. and a parts list to check 'em against.
I used a paddock stand to support the bike and give better access but I reckon it should be do-able on the side stand.
The instruction sheet is one of those godawful generic numbered diagrams but, to be honest, it wasn't TOO difficult to decipher. There are three stages to fitting the stand, first, remove silencers and the bolt holding front pipe bracket under engine and loosen the pipes at the exhaust port clamps.....
.....then assemble the two main stand parts and springs OFF the bike.....not forgetting to grease the pivot bolts.... and torque the nuts to 50Nm (needs to be held in a vice)
I fitted the large spring first, using the old 'washers between the coils' trick to increase the length of the spring thus saving grazed knuckles and gouged fingers. Just bend the spring one way, then t'other, inserting a washer in the open coil each time until it's long enough to reach the mounting holes, then just extend the stand and the washers should just fall out as the spring stretches.
The smaller spring has a rubber sleeve over it, and it fits inside the larger spring. I used a little furniture spray to lube the rubber sleeve and it made it so much easier to fit. The small spring is light enough to be able to hook in position just using a pair of pliers. I also fitted the rubber bump stop at this stage.
I then assembled the stand to the bike using the three hexagon socket head screws and washers supplied. The washers are just plain so I put a dab of Loctite on the threads and then torqued them up to 27Nm. Because the screws are socket heads you'll need a method of connecting a hexagon key to the torque wrench, also, it now became apparent why it's necessary to slacken the exhaust port nuts - the pipes are in the way of the fixing holes and have to be pushed to one side to get the screws in.
Finally, with the stand on the bike and tightened up I removed the paddock stand and tried it out. I think the bike has to be put on the main stand to get the silencers back on and also the right hand exhaust clamp has to be rotated 90 degrees to clear the stand spring. Last items I fitted were the extended hero blobs, again with a dab of Loctite on.
OK, that's it - job done, exhausts back on and everything tightened up. Took about an hour to do including figuring out the installation diagram as all the text was in German. As you can see, it don't half lift the back wheel high up off the deck and when I take it off the stand it feels like it's bumping off a kerb.
Dan