Oil change-:
Take bike out for a 30 minute ride to get the oil nice and hot and any debris well suspended in it, you can just warm it in the workshop but I find a ride better (and more fun) .
After allowing bike to cool for 10-15 minutes remove the dipstick and put to one side, then remove drain bolt on left side of engine and drain the small sump, you will only get about 200 ml from here.
When empty replace and torque drain bolt ( 35Nm) and clean exhaust, .
Then remove drain bolt from the left hand side of bike just behind the filter housing.
This will drain the oil tank, so you will get about 3.5 litres from here. When empty do not replace the drain bolt yet.
Next, remove the 5 allen bolts from the filter housing, starting at the front and working back.
Then remove housing (1) and filter element (2) (this contains about 100ml of oil and it will go everywhere)
Be sure to retain the little tube and O ring from the front.
After cleaning and drying filter housing (petrol or paraffin is good) put new O ring (3) and filter (2) in place (tube on the filter element goes into the hole in the bottom of the housing)
Now place small tube and O ring from earlier into the hole at the front of the housing.
Wipe mounting faces on engine with lint free cloth and replace housing assembly, tightening the 2 centre bolts first then the rear one then the 2 front ones (torque to 10Nm).
Now wipe mounting face for drain bolt and replace and torque (30Nm).
Fill oil tank with 3L of oil to start with, replace dipstick and start engine, rev engine 4 or 5 times and then switch off.
Now top up to specified level (should take another 900ml).
Loosen oil gallery bolt on left hand side of engine
And start engine, allow to idle, and check that oil seeps from gallery bolt. If all is OK then retighten gallery bolt (10Nm).
If no oil appears after 1 minute, stop engine and check filter is correct and there is nothing blocking the oil way in the filter housing.
Plug replacement-:
Now this one is a little tricky and the photos didn’t come out too good either but I’ll do my best.
First remove side panels.
Undo the 3 screws on the side
And the two on the top
Make a note of which come from where. Then remove the one on the inside by the fork leg
Now look underneath the side panel and you will see a plastic plug holding it to a bracket, this needs to be pushed out from the inside (don’t lose the centre pin).
The side panel will now slide back about 10mm and lift up to about 30 degrees
Allowing you to remove the tang from the slot.
Next, remove the bolts holding the radiator to the brackets and remove the brackets from the frame.
Also remove hoses from radiator (as marked) and secure vertically (or the coolant will siphon out of the expansion tank)
Right side
And left side
And top ( 2 off)
Now you can get to the plug caps to remove them.
The radiator will also move forward just enough to get the plug spanner behind it and down the hole onto the plug (make sure the rubber insert is in the plug spanner as you need this to grip the plug to lift it out of the hole)
Yours will move a bit further than mine as you can see my engine bars are in the way.
When plugs are changed, replace plug caps, brackets and radiator.
While everything is off, if you need to change the coolant, now would be a good time.
Coolant change-:
I didn’t do this job at the time so I just lifted this straight from the workshop manual.
Air filter-:
I only change the plugs every 24,000 miles because (a) they’re a pain in the arse and (b) they don’t really need to be done any more frequently, so while I’ve got the side panels off I change the air filter (or if it’s a K&N, clean it) too because it’s only a 10 minute job.
First remove seat, and then undo and remove the two small infill panels
Then remove the bolts securing the tank (one either side)
Then lift and secure tank in upright position (I use a bungee or similar)
Remove vacuum hose (and block with something if you wish to do the air box mod at the same time)
And undo the 8 screws securing the lid.
Remove lid
Then filter element
Check for and remove any excessive oil (a small amount is normal as this is where the oil tank breather goes to)
Insert new Filter element, replace lid and screws and vacuum hose
When replacing tank, be sure that the drain and vacuum pipes coming off the bottom of the tank don’t get trapped or kinked, and remember to pull them through the guide loop next to the side stand pivot so that a fuel overflow doesn’t drain onto the hot exhaust.
We are almost done.
Put everything back together and ride the bike to get it up to operating temperature, then adjust idle speed if required.
With this done we can then synchronize the throttle bodies.
Except I forgot to take pictures so I will write this up another time.
Edited by celticbiker, 23 January 2009 - 10:52 pm.
