181 replies to this topic

[AzzA]

EDIT: This is getting to be a long read, so get yourself comfortable with a brew, and you might just find out how to solve your TDM900 woes.

 

I've been asked to compile this information a bit more, and I thank those people for their support and continued references from elsewhere in the forum, and I'm glad I have been able to help so many other TDM900 owners sort out the low RPM issue.
 
This introduction to the problem is from another post I made:
 
Sadly, it's well documented that some TDM900's are much less than tractable in low to mid range RPM.

However, it has been proven that the TDM900 can be tuned to be a very tractable machine using one of several methods.

Thankfully, you do have options available for the TDM900 to remedy the situation.

Choose which one suits your budget and/or abilities:

- make inlet and exhaust modifications, that are likely in some cases to require further tuning. e.g. after-market exhaust and filter, and/or the air-box mod (air-box mod only useful if your bike is 2006 or earlier).
   . (In many cases you're well on your way going this route.)
- retune with very particular attention to throttle body vacuums and offset of the TPS, progressively retuning for optimum.
   . (for capable purists)
- Power Commander III add-on, and pay for someone wise and experienced with a dynamometer.
   . (cashed up enough to throw some money at it)
- Dobeck/Techlusion TFI-1025 add-on, and tune as you would a carburettor (simple enough for DIY).
   . (coz I did it my way)
- apply a somewhat more band-aid method by tricking one of the sensors to cause a richer A/F.
   . (snake oil is good for ya)
- any combination of the above.
   . (no two bikes are the same and everyone loves farkles)

Personally I can't see any reason why someone should have to just live with it if it is an issue for them.
 
Five very good, low cost, tips for taming the TDM900:
 
1. balance the throttle bodies and set the vacuum at its highest possible setting within the advised range (see the manual, any shop can do this but so can any handy owner with the right tool... like a CarbTune,for example), [I was surprised at how much difference this made to my bike, even after the TFI was fitted.]
 
2. set the idle at around 1150-1200 RPM once the engine is hot. (see manual, the RPM dropping too low will cause issue),
 
3. adjust (final drive) chain tension correctly (see manual, so many shops seem to get it wrong for the TDM),
 
4. adjust throttle cable slack to higher end of advised limit (see manual, this might make the throttle tube feel a bit sloppy but the result is to smooth out your wrist input)

 

5. Use the right fuel. The TDM isn't a high tuned race engine; it wont make use of high RON (premium) fuels and they can cause poor low RPM running. I have found the local 91  RON  to be best all-round... 95RON can get more miles per tank on the highway but can run rough around town... 98RON is  as per 95 but with even worse low RPM running (and the bike can stink of un-burnt fuel). (The higher RON premium fuels are more viscous and, unless the engine is made for them, will not mix and burn as they should which causes rich running and can foul ignition plugs.) The TDM900 was designed for low RON fuels, so run them on it; the only time to go higher is if nothing else is available or the ambient temperature is often above 40 degrees C (this will prevent pre-detonation or pinking). (There's lots of information to support what I've just said, you'll even find it at the fuel manufacturers websites.)
 
6. lower the final gearing ratio, by changing the front or/and rear sprockets. (If you do not regularly ride over 120kph or 75mph, then lower gearing can help low end performance.) Yes, I know this is item "6" on a list of "5", but this one can be expensive depending on how you do it and your speedometer will need correcting (even more than it does from OEM). Cheapest way, with OEM 525 gauge chain, is to change front sprocket to 15 teeth and then fix the speedometer with a SpeedoDRD. If you're due for a new chain and sprocket set, the best option is front 15T and rear 43T either with 525 or 530 gauge chain; 530 chains should last longer at a minuscule cost in efficiency, 530 chains are also usually much cheaper to buy. Both 15/42 and 15/43 ratios will use the same chain length as the OEM 16/42; that is 118 links. Other ratios might need longer chains, check out www.gearingcommander.com to explore your options.There are other options for speedometer fixing, like the SpeedoHealer, and I have only listed the SpeedoDRD because it's the cheapest option and I know it works on my TDM.
 
... and now back to the
Dobeck Performance "TFI-1025" EFI Tuner For The Tdm900

(If the fixes above haven't fully cured your problem.)
 
The Dobeck Performance "TFI-1025" EFI Tuner is a simple add-on device that adds fuel by extending the pulse delivered to the fuel injector for a given set of parameters. It does not remap the EFI. It does not need to be tuned on a dynamometer. All adjustments are made with small screwdriver; no computer connection is required.

You may also find these units with different branding or re-branding; "Techlusion" and "StainTune" are others I have seen.

You can get them from their website, some bike stores, and eBay by searching for "FI-1025".
Pricing starts around US$150.
The advert will usually be for another bike model, but any of the TFI-1025 will fit the TDM900.

From their website:
" Mark Dobeck, founder of Dynojet, the same person who introduced the jet kit and the inertia dynamometer, formed a new company called Techlusion in 1997. The focus of the company was to develop a controller as a fuel solution for EFI vehicles..."

Dynojet manufacture the Power Commander products.

There are installationand tuning instructions on the website, and included with the packaging.

I deviated from the recommended installation, because I'm not one to do work I don't have to, so I removed the need to lift the petrol tank. Rather than install the wire-taps near the injectors I installed them near the ECU; because it's a whole lot easier to get to and makes it all quite tidy. (Buggered if I was going to pull all the fairing apart when one side is enough.)

I'm not a great fan of wire-taps, but the ones supplied are the better type. My intention is to splice the loom when I'm completely satisfied with the device.

I first installed the device almost three years ago when the bike was stock. Since then I have added K&N filter; Fuel Exhaust mufflers; and reduced the final drive ratio, so I figured it was time to revisit the tuning as we're coming out of winter... and I'm glad I did. The result is a very tractable ride.

Originally I left the O2 sensor connected and the first pot/screw of the FI-1025 set to zero; this leaves the TDM to set the A/F mixture.

From new, with the ECU and O2 sensor setting the A/F mixture, my 9'er was bit of a pig around town. Practically no cruise under about 3700 RPM, it tended to gallop or hunt. Roundabouts and slow turns were a full on effort of clutch and throttle micro-management, and a slip-up would deliver the chug-a-chug-oh-fuckit moment that an alarming number of 900 owners curse about. I even bought a second bike just for around town.

The air-box mod made no discernible improvement to my bike. (Graeme, who also owns an '09 Australian TDM, has reported much the same... so maybe this is model specific, who knows.) EDIT: It is now confirmed that 2007+ models will not benefit from the air-box mod, see JBX's great TDM compendium for details.

Recently I experimented with disconnecting the O2 sensor. I was surprised to find the engine ran even leaner. This means that a poorly functioning O2 sensor will cause lean running on a TDM900. (Some other EFI designs will run richer when the O2 sensor fails; presumably to prevent damage to the combustion chamber, and preserve tractable performance.)

Since taking the O2 sensor out of circuit and tuning the A/F using the first screw on the TFI-1025, I can now cruise at any speed in any gear with steady RPM and linear power/torque delivery. The engine will pull smoothly from about 1500RPM, so it is now possible to do things like: slowly approach blind intersections at near idle and then pull away smoothly; confidently run at idle around pedestrians; shift and short-shift at practically any RPM without having to avoid the old "Zone of Dread" that once resided between 3000~3700RPM; cruise at low revs in traffic; and generally stay off the fecking clutch lever unless I'm actually changing a gear.

The O2 sensor can be disabled by either: unplugging it (under the left frame cover); or cutting the wire near the ECU; or pulling the pin from the ECU plug (see JBX's site for the air-box mod, for details on how to release the pin from the plug).

I wish I had removed the O2 sensor three years sooner!

Check your model specific manual for wire colours and plug pin numbers etc.

If you have access to an exhaust gas meter, you could set the A/F ratio using the dash CO settings after disconnecting the O2 sensor; but this is not practical for most DIY owners. This device is an accessible option. EDIT: but usually only found in better professional workshops.

This is the unit installed and stowed away, only the wire-taps are visible below the stock ECU:
 2012-09-02_17-06-57_731.jpg   37.82KB   87 downloads

Unplug the ECU and you can just see the unit in its hiding spot, it's stuck there with some self-adhesive Velcro. It's a neat fit between the ECU and the splash gaurd:
 2012-09-02_17-06-39_289.jpg   41.93KB   99 downloads

Here's the unit hanging free from its hideout:
I cut the wires short to be tidy. But, if you wanted to, there is enough wire to mount the unit on your dash/bars for on the road (seat of the pants) tuning runs.
 2012-09-02_17-06-09_859.jpg   42.41KB   98 downloads

For easier tuning, I stuck an extra piece of Velcro to the ECU. Here you can see it with the cover off:
 2012-09-02_17-05-42_545.jpg   39.59KB   99 downloads

And a close-up:
 2012-09-02_16-43-59_686.jpg   41.69KB   92 downloads

They also manufacture a plug-n-play unit for the TDM900, its got a pass-through injector loom plug and socket on the loom and uses buttons instead of screwdriver adjustments. Se it here LINK. It is part number 8120094. EDIT: Although they say "plug-n-play", you will have to lift the fuel tank to install it; so IMHO the TFI-1025 is the easier unit to fit.
Tech/R&D at Dobeck Performance informs me that "The Gen 3.5 unit has the ability to take away fuel and add. Whereas the Gen 3 can only add just like the TFI kit."
This means the later (3.5) product is closer to the PowerCommander in its function, at a fraction of the cost... but you'll need a dynamometer and an exhaust gas analyser to make full use of the extra function... which IMHO is completely aside from the simple cost effectiveness of the TFI-1025, but it's your money.
The Gen 3.5 unit cannot be switched like the TFI-1025, to give a dual map mode. (Method explained down the page.) However it is possible to produce the Gen 3 kits to be plug-n-play and switch-mode-able... stay tuned for more info on this.

Attached Files

•  2012-09-02_16-43-39_484.jpg   35.97KB   82 downloads
•  2012-09-02_17-05-46_92.jpg   39.6KB   66 downloads
•  2012-09-02_17-06-35_753.jpg   42.08KB   48 downloads

Edited by AzzA, 24 May 2013 - 10:59 am.

[danresh]

Hello Azza

Great detailed explanation! Following your post of August 18th, I already ordered the unit - however, after discussing with my mechanic, chose the plug-n-play version, which they call EJK (electronic jet kit) or part no. 8120094, which is preset for the 1st stage of tuning the TDM900. It should arrive within the next week, and hopefully, will conform with all your recommendations. I will also cancel the airbox mod, mainly because I never liked the sharp deceleration jolt you get, everytime you let go of the throttle at low gear...

Will update,

Danresh

[Phil McLaughlin]

Hello Azza

Great detailed explanation! Following your post of August 18th, I already ordered the unit - however, after discussing with my mechanic, chose the plug-n-play version, which they call EJK (electronic jet kit) or part no. 8120094, which is preset for the 1st stage of tuning the TDM900. It should arrive within the next week, and hopefully, will conform with all your recommendations. I will also cancel the airbox mod, mainly because I never liked the sharp deceleration jolt you get, everytime you let go of the throttle at low gear...

Will update,

Danresh

AzzA what has the impact on fuel economy been ?

cheers

[Sidarta]

Dear AZZA

I do not have a niner, but your post / tutorial perfectly meets the expectations of carpe several friends and other visitors and owners who face this problem with the niner. Congratulations for sharing this great solution for better performance 900. You will leave many happy owners!

You're the guy!

This post has to be kept in the library at 7 keys.



Cheers!

Sidarta

[AzzA]

AzzA what has the impact on fuel economy been ?

cheers

Hard to tell at this stage; I was going to refill today (had the day off work) but it was bloody horrible out, so I stayed inside like a pussy.

When the thing was set up with the O2 sensor active, the fuel economy was much on par with other 900's. It only really took a hit when I loaded up and clipped on the panniers; those feckers make a lot of down-force, enough to shove the arse end sideways on big sweepers... it's brutal on tyres too.

5L/100km was average, best was about 4.1L/100km, worst was 7.7L/100km (with hillbilly-mixed fuel, stiff headwinds, and speeds I wont comment on).

I then changed the final gearing to be lower, without correcting the speedo/odo', and it was then using as much or less than the Mrs's NT700V when we went out together... I will tend to ride ahead while she plays catchup, like the tortoise and hare.

I've now corrected the speedo and have since removed the O2 sensor, so will have to reassess the average and apply corrections so as to present the result in the same light as that from a stock bike... if you follow me.

One thing that most people seem to overlook is, the TDM900 odometer returns a reading that is 5-7% positive in error... so your "fuel refill to mileage" ratios are somewhat optimistic. A lot of modern bikes seem to share about the same error margin.

I did the latest mods after a few months laid-up, while I rode my other bike, so the fuel was bad when I first tuned it... I've since drained the tank and refilled... the new fuel saw a substantial jump in idle RPM! That's how bad the old fuel was, after only a few months. So I've since retuned it, but only have about 150kms on the clock since... it's showing about two thirds full on the meter, which is about normal (my fuel indicator has never been linear; the top half tank seems to vaporise before the bike runs on fumes forever).

I expect it will use a little more than it did before; my bike was so lean it was to the detriment of the ride... but if I'm now getting 350-430km per tank, on mixed cycle, I will be more than happy.

[AzzA]

Done some more miles, got some more smiles.

First refill the other day returned a figure of 5.6L/100km, which is pretty average but it was only 177kms so the error on fuel volume and the fact it was 1/3 town riding probably tainted the figure.

Today was 5.15L/100km over 279km at the same pump, and was about 1/6 town riding.

Taking into account that my speedo/odo is corrected to be GPS accurate and the OEM has a 5-7% error, we can now apply some calculations to compare apples with apples...
((5.6+5.15)/2)*[0.93 to 0.93]= 5.0L to 5.1L/100km

These figures are consistent with what I've gotten over the past 3+ years of ownership.

So despite my fiddlings, and conquest over the "Chug-A-Chugs", the TDM900 can remain an economical mount.


Still getting 400kms per tank and it's a more tractable bike than OEM... I can sure live with that.

 

EDIT: on a January run from Omeo, over Mt Hotham and down the Great Alpine Road, then south on the Hume Free-way, and over to Heathcote, the fuel figure came in at exactly 5.00L/100km. The bike was loaded with 90 litres of panniers, and it was a stinking hot day which would have normally reduced fuel efficiency.

Edited by AzzA, 02 April 2013 - 01:33 pm.

[TDMTAM]

Great write up, Thanks for the info.
TAM

[roys]

Done some more miles, got some more smiles.

First refill the other day returned a figure of 5.6L/100km, which is pretty average but it was only 177kms so the error on fuel volume and the fact it was 1/3 town riding probably tainted the figure.

Today was 5.15L/100km over 279km at the same pump, and was about 1/6 town riding.

Taking into account that my speedo/odo is corrected to be GPS accurate and the OEM has a 5-7% error, we can now apply some calculations to compare apples with apples...
((5.6+5.15)/2)*[0.93 to 0.93]= 5.0L to 5.1L/100km

These figures are consistent with what I've gotten over the past 3+ years of ownership.

So despite my fiddlings, and conquest over the "Chug-A-Chugs", the TDM900 can remain an economical mount.
Still getting 400kms per tank and it's a more tractable bike than OEM... I can sure live with that.

great info.
10x

[rscott4563]

Great write up AzzA on the back of which I have just ordered my very own TFI-1025 from the USofA (via a very cheap eBay shop) so once it arrives expect plenty of questions to come flying your way!

[AzzA]

I'll make this post now to give a head start to those who've asked... and for those whom might.

This is all correct to the best of my knowledge and is true for all models, with only minor change to the injector wire colours on some models.

BUT, and it's a BIG BUT, check your bike and manual first to ensure it's all good before you start making any changes.

Standard disclaimers apply:
I will not be responsible for anything you do to your own bike, unless it's wonderful, and I am not responsible for the death of kittens anywhere. (Except for that one time.)

 TFI-1025-install-TDM900.jpg   61.79KB   35 downloads

It should all become more self explanatory once you have the TFI unit in your hand; it's only got four (4) wires.

Two wires for power: red and black, and
two wires for the injectors: blue and grey.

It does not matter which way the blue and grey wires are configured; one to each injector wire, either way around.

If you want to disable the O2 Sensor, setting the Air Fuel (A/F) mixture manually with the TFI, then you will need to remove the Gy/G wire from the plug or cut it. (Or unplug the sensor under the left frame cover.)
Then tune the TFI for fastest & smoothest running at about 2000RPM. I strongly recommend you do this if you want the best performance and no chug-a-chugs.

Method with O2 sensor disabled:
Fill with fresh fuel. (91 RON is best IMHO)
Warm up the engine to full running temp.
Wind the idle screw up to set idle at about 2000RPM. EDIT: Due to the air-box flap on the 2007+ models opening at 2000RPM, set idle at about 2300RPM.
Adjust first screw on TFI clockwise from 1 o'clock until the revs reach maximum and the running is smooth (should be between 2&4 depending on modifications etc)
Spend some loving time with your TDM finding the best setting.
Wind the idle screw back to normal setting, ~1200RPM.
Set the other TFI screws to the recommended settings.
Test the yellow and red LED's for correct function.
Secure everything and test ride.
Fall in love all over again.


If you don't disable the O2 sensor, be sure to set the first screw setting to the 1 o'clock position (OFF). (IMHO you're wasting the TFI by doing this.)


Enjoy.

EDIT: 16/10/2012

The following circuit could be used to switch between OEM and the TFI-1025.... a dual mapped TDM900, if you like... this might be handy if you need the TDM to be stock for a moment.

 TFI-1025-install-TDM900 option.jpg   41.81KB   30 downloads

When the switch is in the up position, the TFI is powered on and the O2 sensor is out of circuit... The TDM900 will run modified, with the TFI-1025 setting A/F.

When the switch is in the down position, the TFI is not powered and the O2 sensor is in circuit... The TDM900 should run as OEM, using the O2 sensor to set A/F.

The switch could be waterproofed and mounted under the fairing, where it can be reached but not seen. Handy for EPA or MOT inspections.

I strongly suggest: Turn the ignition and key off before changing modes with the switch.

(I have not tested this function, but it should work; the TFI most likely uses open collector switching to the injectors and the sensing circuitry should very high impedance. Good engineering of devices like this ensures that they do not impede the host circuit should they fail; the DPDT switch is mimicking a power failure to the TFI, whilst also remaking the O2 sensor circuit.)

Edited by AzzA, 24 May 2013 - 11:03 am.

[OldGit]

Any stockists in the UK or will they send them over the pond?

Ta

Nick

[rscott4563]

Any stockists in the UK or will they send them over the pond?

Ta

Nick

I found the best and cheapest way to get one was to order from an eBay seller across the pond, massive saving compared to the retail price over here.

Ordered mine on the 10th and it was dispatched on the 11th for a grand total of £105 inc postage, should be with me by next Friday at the latest.

[Studley Ramrod]

Move to KB ?

[Jesse]

I have just purchased one from the ebay seller Azza mentioned. Saved around $100 on the local price. Looking forward to trying it out and will report results.
Jesse

[AzzA]

That makes a couple of these things floating around out there near 900's... I'm keen to hear from those that have fitted them and if it's been the revolution I experienced.

If anyone needs tips on fitting and tuning, fell free to ask.

[danresh]

That makes a couple of these things floating around out there near 900's... I'm keen to hear from those that have fitted them and if it's been the revolution I experienced.

If anyone needs tips on fitting and tuning, fell free to ask.

Just "as we speak", the EJK is being installed in my 9ner. The airbox mod will be cancelled and so will the O2 sensor. Within the next 24 hours I will be able to report results. In any case, I plan to start by test riding it without changing the initial basic set-up as per the suggested instructions and try to evaluate the results and the needed changes in tuning accordingly.

Wish me luck...
Danresh

[arthurbikemad]

Interesting box of tricks, I'm always wary of such devices after I smashed a so called EFI tuning box open to find the pots and dip switches had no PCB the wires went no where only in and out of an epoxy box with switches and dials! anyway that was nothing to do with this unit, how do you meter your AFR and test the unit? I've read many reports of dash O2 settings and talk of the oem Lambda sensor, out of interest how does the stock sensor do much in the way of correcting AFR as its the most basic Narrow sensor on the market I'm surprised it can read any AFR at all? unlike a Wideband sensor? I fitted some pipes to my 900 and it seemed to loose a lot of midrange power as you would expect with stock fueling I added plus 10 to each c1 and c2 and power is much improved, I don't want to add a PC3 and map for missing midrange however since I added to c1/2 it's much better also its interesting how many threads say the TDM is rich after adding pipes etc? sorry for the data blast post just interested in some of your views... I don't see how you can test AFR with no meter and tune with no dyno, best AFR like 13.2:1 does not always make best power as we all know so how do you know if your lean or rich? also a lean motor always feels strong on the road etc?

Edited by Arthur, 27 September 2012 - 02:23 pm.

[AzzA]

Just "as we speak", the EJK is being installed in my 9ner. The airbox mod will be cancelled and so will the O2 sensor. Within the next 24 hours I will be able to report results. In any case, I plan to start by test riding it without changing the initial basic set-up as per the suggested instructions and try to evaluate the results and the needed changes in tuning accordingly.

Wish me luck...
Danresh

Try the recommended setting first, but... I'm not sure the "initial basic set-up" accounts for the O2 sensor being cancelled (they seem a bit vague on that point).

Having had a look at the EJK site, and from what I (think I) know, you will most probably need to set the Green/Blue setting to the lowest point; because when you remove the O2 sensor the engine will lean out from idle upwards.
You will then need to add some to the Green setting, to find the best idle... if you're familiar with carburettors, this setting is like tuning your primary or pilot jets.

The Yellow and Red zones are like main jets and an adjustable accelerator pump. These probably wont need much, or any, changing.

Play with the demo at http://electronicjetkit.com/tuning.asp and you should see what I mean by looking at the graph as you make the changes.

[rscott4563]

That makes a couple of these things floating around out there near 900's... I'm keen to hear from those that have fitted them and if it's been the revolution I experienced.

If anyone needs tips on fitting and tuning, fell free to ask.

Well my package arrived yesterday all the way from AZ, USA with no customs charges to pay which was nice. I've only had a chance to take it out of the box and inspect it for any obvious damage, it looks and feels well put together.

Hopefully I'll get some time over the weekend to fit it and tune it, fingers crossed the weather stays dry!

AzzA, quick question for you. When setting your up did you just run your bike without the front fairing on so that you had quick access to the pots to tweak the settings as you were on and off the bike (I'm talking about the Yellow, Red & RPM pots).

Was it easy to setup correctly, i.e. could you easily tell when you had the pot at the correct setting because the changes were quite obvious or were the changes much more subtle and difficult to detect when say turning the Red pot from 1 to 2 and 2 to 3?

Cheers, Ryan

[AzzA]

Interesting box of tricks, I'm always wary of such devices after I smashed a so called EFI tuning box open to find the pots and dip switches had no PCB the wires went no where only in and out of an epoxy box with switches and dials! anyway that was nothing to do with this unit, how do you meter your AFR and test the unit? I've read many reports of dash O2 settings and talk of the oem Lambda sensor, out of interest how does the stock sensor do much in the way of correcting AFR as its the most basic Narrow sensor on the market I'm surprised it can read any AFR at all? unlike a Wideband sensor? I fitted some pipes to my 900 and it seemed to loose a lot of midrange power as you would expect with stock fueling I added plus 10 to each c1 and c2 and power is much improved, I don't want to add a PC3 as mapping the whole rev range seems pointless just to cure the problem of missing midrange however since I added to c1/2 it's much better also its interesting how many threads say the TDM is rich after adding pipes etc? sorry for the data blast post just interested in some of your views...

Theoretically you should be able to tune the 900 by using the dash, but in reality it's a tedious method and without a CO meter it's just too much guessing; it's nigh on impossible to tune for best idle when you can only adjust one pot by a very narrow margin at a time. I tried but only got frustrated.

The Dobek or EJK are genuine devices, with real parts that function, that allow the home mechanic to tune an EFI engine as if it had carburettors... but without having to tear-down the bike each time you want to try a new jet size. (Ever done that, trying to find the right sized main jet, when the seat, tank, and carbies have to all come out? About a dozen fecking times!)

The 900's O2 sensor is woeful, and I have no doubt it is the reason that some owners have problems, thankfully it can be remedied.

A mud puddle or a bad tank of fuel is enough to foul one of the TDM O2 sensors... if it worked properly anyway.