153 replies to this topic

[SteveK]

 

My fast idle is stuck in the 'fast' position with the pin fully retracted so I will have ago at freeing it as per this thread.
 
Question is, does the wax-stat get damaged when the pin is seized in the 'in' position like this?  Does the pin punch a hole in the stat or cause it to crack when the expansion is prevented as it heats up?
 
Also, can the stat be tested when it is removed by dropping it in a jug of hot water, for instance and seeing movement?  Would be nice to know it is OK before reassembly.
 
Thanks in advance for any advice.

No damage to the wax stat, I think the spring just compresses more. I never thought to test mine that way when it was off but everything worked after reassembly.

[OldGreyWizard]

DenH

This is one of those jobs that appears more difficult than it really is. You don't have to drain down the Rad, however the two "Cheese" screws do need to be replaced, perefereably with allen bolts, once you have mangeld them getting therm

out.

Good luck with the job

[Vaughny]

I've got this exact problem, to which my local Yam dealer reckons is 2.5 hours work. Which to be fair, it is, but at £60 per hour, it's £150 I don't have.

 

Just ordered the boots, and need to order up the bolts. Hopefully can do this on the weekend.

[ChrisG]

When I did this I got some allen bolts but then found the heads were too wide to fit as the bolt holes are pretty close to the body. The old bolts came out pretty easily though so I reused them but put a bit of ACF50 on them before I put them back through

[leehenty]

if you use a brake pipe clamp on each of the two small pipes the water stays in no problem.

[DenH]

Many thanks all.

 

OldGreyWizard, I have read up on doing the job without draining coolant and have purchased allen bolts as well.  Now that the weather is (hopefully) warming up there is no excuse for not getting on with it. 

 

I will let you know how it goes!

[Vaughny]

With the great help of this thread, I managed to complete this job on Saturday. Didn't drain down the rad, or even touch it. If you've got a very good pair of mole grips/pliers you can just undo the bolts from there.

 

The only things I'll say is that the original bolts are treated so that they don't rust. Obviously a lot of coppergrease will help solve that problem.

[DenH]

I got the job done today in about three hours.  No problem at all, just fiddly.

 

When starting from cold I have to use a little throttle or she will fire but stall.  Once running I can close the throttle and she will just about keep running at 1000rpm or below.  I just feel she would be happier if I could increase it a little for start-up.

 

Is there an adjustment I can make to the cold engine fast idle?  I am happy with the hot engine idle adjustment.

[dablik]

I got the job done today in about three hours.  No problem at all, just fiddly.

 

When starting from cold I have to use a little throttle or she will fire but stall.  Once running I can close the throttle and she will just about keep running at 1000rpm or below.  I just feel she would be happier if I could increase it a little for start-up.

 

Is there an adjustment I can make to the cold engine fast idle?  I am happy with the hot engine idle adjustment.

Right side of the engine Den ( sitting on the bike ) squat down and look just under the top frame member above the engine and you will see the idle adjustment tucked away,, you can twiddle it by hand m8,, 1100 to 1200 revs give the throttle a blip after.

[DenH]

Right side of the engine Den ( sitting on the bike ) squat down and look just under the top frame member above the engine and you will see the idle adjustment tucked away,, you can twiddle it by hand m8,, 1100 to 1200 revs give the throttle a blip after.

Yes I know that one!  It adjusts the normal warm engine idle speed and is set correctly..

 

I was looking to increase the idle revs for a cold start if it can be done as my bike fires but stalls unless I use some throttle.  Even after freeing off the fast idle pin which is now working properly.  Once running the revs build slowly to about 1500, then drop back to 1200 when warmed up.  Only a minor problem but wondered if there was adjustment.

 

I noticed that there is an adjustment screw on the end of the slider (left hand side) where it contacts the pin of the fast idle mechanism and wondered what that did?

[Rallyist]

alter

 

Yes I know that one!  It adjusts the normal warm engine idle speed and is set correctly..

 

I was looking to increase the idle revs for a cold start if it can be done as my bike fires but stalls unless I use some throttle.  Even after freeing off the fast idle pin which is now working properly.  Once running the revs build slowly to about 1500, then drop back to 1200 when warmed up.  Only a minor problem but wondered if there was adjustment.

 

I noticed that there is an adjustment screw on the end of the slider (left hand side) where it contacts the pin of the fast idle mechanism and wondered what that did?

 That one does alter the tick over turning anti clock increases the cold tick over if memory serves me right,

[timoc]

Is this a job worth doing as a prevenetive measure, or if it ain't broke, don't fix it?

[dablik]

Preventives always good i say,, but if it's okay wait till ya got nowt else to do,, dont take very long..

[3vd]

Is this a job worth doing as a prevenetive measure, or if it ain't broke, don't fix it?

 

Just done mine, it's an 08..... you'll have to do it soon I reckon.

[timoc]

Well, did this last night, not the most pleasant job. Managed to get one screw out with the vice clamp method, but ended up using a small chisel to get the other screw off, replaced with allen head screws. I seperated the unit in the frame, to save disconnecting the coolant pipes. Even though the bike has just over 6000 miles, the pin was stiff. All cleaned, copperslipped and sorted. Many thanks to all who contributed to this, I wouldn't have done it without the info here.

[divvxj]

my bike had been sat for a few weeks over winter , the pin had corroded and wouldnt shift , got it cleaned up and greased at its mot , the engine had done almost 49000at the time (last week) its now heading for 50000 , tick over was just on the one thou but i turned it up a notch so its sitting between 1100 and 1200

[Stiggy]

Had this on my '03 and now on my '07. Thing is, the plunger is working fine, but it looks like the slider is corroded (I use the bike year round, so road salt and wet weather isn't a great combo for it!). I spent a couple of weeks away on business where the bike just sat, which is where the issues started.

 

So I stripped, lubed the plunger and have even replaced the return spring - but from cold the slider still isn't returning properly to the 'fast' position. I can push it with my fingers and it starts up fine, then settles to idle when hot. But this puts it at risk of flooding (which happened the other week and is a ROYAL pain as the plugs are a pain to get at ).

 

Looks like I need to strip it again, get the slider plate off and polish it up. The flaming plate is held on with more cheese screws and they're even more inaccessible than the fast idle plunger - so I'm not looking forward to it....

[chrisr]

IIRC Lee Henty made a new pin up for my bike, probably stainless!  Contact him and he may be able to do

the same for you and supply one of his CSM kits, you shouldn't need to touch it again!

[leehenty]

Chrisr your new pin was turned out of 316 stainless bar while U waited as your old one was er very U/S.

Lucky you were at my house with full access to the machines.

I think the fellow above has problems with the cross slider the pin bears onto. he will need to strip it down carefully, clean the slots as the screws are the cross head cheese type. I personally would replace these screws with stainless versions.There may be small brass rings under the screws for the slots to run on.

Is the spring that pushes it across still strong and not corroded ?

 

Usually, if the C/S pin has not been squashed out of round by mole grips wielded by the previous owner trying to free it   , it can be cleaned and pressed back into service, fitting a rubber boot to stop the crud getting in there again.

 

Chrisr's bike must be the only one out there with a custom turned 316 stainless pin in the C/S mech.

That bit will not go rusty

Edited by leehenty, 15 April 2013 - 10:51 pm.

[Stiggy]

Hi Lee - you're right, it's the slider, not the pin. The pin is uncorroded and moves freely (I stripped and checked it to be sure). I've already replaced the spring to no avail. Looks like I'll have to try and remove the slider. I know that the screws are the cheese variety - have already replaced the plunger ones with allen cap heads. The slider ones are even harder to get at though! I found mole grips far more effective to remove the cheese heads than a driver. Just pray I don't snap a head off!!!