Fork Oil Seal (mkI)
Started by
dapleb
, Jun 11 2006 05:51 pm
168 replies to this topic
#81
Tom S
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Posted 20 July 2006 - 01:44 pm
And thanks to Guinness for helping me try to get back on the site when there was a problem.
#82
wicklamulla
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is it Jizzy Rascal time yet.....?
- Location:Parish of Cruwys (pronounced 'Cruise' just loike Tom) Morchard, Mid Devon.
- TDM model: 1999
Posted 20 July 2006 - 05:23 pm
noice wan Tom S, glad yer all sorted. have you taken her out ferra ride since doing all the work ?
spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.
I loike tay and hang sangwiches !
www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk
http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6
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#83
darcym
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Carpe fan
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Posted 20 July 2006 - 06:55 pm
My fork rebuild is next, also a '92. Glad for the pics and tips, Tom. Will let y'all know how it went when it's done.
1992 TDM 850, RED
Corbin seat, Kerker pipes, Givi top case.
DMPHOTOSD.com
Corbin seat, Kerker pipes, Givi top case.
DMPHOTOSD.com
#84
Pict
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Keep on keepin' on
- Location:North Herts., UK
- TDM model: 2006
Posted 20 July 2006 - 07:05 pm
QUOTE(dapleb @ Sun 11th Jun 2006, 10:44 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
This def aint spilt oil...its pickled onion water oi can smell the bassad.
Nah, it's just a little leek
"It's a TDM, Jim, but not as we know it"
www.youtube.com/watch?v=RAHmEWim3to
Diamond black TDM 900A TRIKE, 2006 ABS model converted by Trike Design (Caerphilly, South Wales) prior to first registration in March 2007.
#85
Tom S
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Posted 21 July 2006 - 08:29 am
QUOTE(wicklamulla @ Thu 20th Jul 2006, 09:08 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
noice wan Tom S, glad yer all sorted. have you taken her out ferra ride since doing all the work ?
Gee Wicky, think I should? Of course! Several. I ride every day in summer. Feels better & new front tire went on at same time.
Need to do the other fork. It will be much eaiser, since I have done the first one. Winter job.
QUOTE(Pict @ Thu 20th Jul 2006, 10:50 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Nah, it's just a little leek
#86
wicklamulla
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is it Jizzy Rascal time yet.....?
- Location:Parish of Cruwys (pronounced 'Cruise' just loike Tom) Morchard, Mid Devon.
- TDM model: 1999
Posted 21 July 2006 - 10:20 am
Hay Tom whats that old looking Yam crosser in one of yer pics ???
spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.
I loike tay and hang sangwiches !
www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk
http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6
http://reg.imageshack.us/v_images.php
#87
Tom S
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Posted 21 July 2006 - 01:35 pm
QUOTE(wicklamulla @ Fri 21st Jul 2006, 02:05 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Hay Tom whats that old looking Yam crosser in one of yer pics ???
You tryin to get me in trouble?
Remember this?
QUOTE(Tom S @ Sat 24th Jun 2006, 06:38 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
--snip--
Thank doods. I'd like to respond but I am skeered that Guinnes gonna whack my little n00b pee-pee fer hijacks.
http://www.carpe-tdm...?showtopic=1029
Thank doods. I'd like to respond but I am skeered that Guinnes gonna whack my little n00b pee-pee fer hijacks.
http://www.carpe-tdm...?showtopic=1029
From here
http://www.carpe-tdm...&...post&p=9142
Hmmm?
'69 DT1 250 I bought new in Japan.
Then:
I won.
Rode all over Okinawa too.
Now, same bike, with '73 Bultaco Pursang 250. A sad site to see.
Edited by Tom S, 23 July 2006 - 01:22 pm.
#88
wicklamulla
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is it Jizzy Rascal time yet.....?
- Location:Parish of Cruwys (pronounced 'Cruise' just loike Tom) Morchard, Mid Devon.
- TDM model: 1999
Posted 22 July 2006 - 03:01 pm
beauties !!! i had to save the DT pic to me desktop !
spyball alarm/immob, bluespot brake calipers and Stainless hoses, Fournales air adjustable shock with Remote Resevoir, forks raised 10mm thru yokes, racetech linear fork springs in 15 wt oil, Kappa wingrack/luggage, heated grips, Kedo handguards, dual heat controller to power heated jacket liner and or pants!!, Stebel 136DB horn, K&N air filter, colour matched Baglux tank cover (magnetic tank bag modified to fit cover), osram +50% headloight bulbs, headlight protector,"NitramSpecial" parking loight, tail light indicators all running on LED's & incorporate "Lite Buddies", MK7 Scottoiler fitted, taller screen, 2-2 stainless steel CCC's, Devil stainless down pipes. MKI Renntec engine crash bars & sump guard.
engine changed july 2007 on a dyno run it made 79.1BHP / Torque 59.9Had a brief flirtation with a 1999 MKIIa but it blew an exaust valve on the M5 so was sold on to be repaired.
I loike tay and hang sangwiches !
www.kenhogantreeservices.co.uk
http://s33.photobuck...77/wickla/?sc=6
http://reg.imageshack.us/v_images.php
#89
Tom S
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Posted 22 July 2006 - 04:41 pm
That white DT pic is a beauty.
#90
dapleb
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Monkey Boy
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Posted 28 August 2006 - 06:02 pm
OK so after my trip I have a load more victims (fork legs) to practice on 
. The set that I rebuilt and musta bodged somehow, and the set from G which I also fegged.
Does anyone with a mkI who has done a fork rebuild have the old seals still? If so, I would be very interested to know what size they are (its marked on the edge). The forks I rebuilt originally had much shallower seals than the replacement seals I got from Yamaha (which I assumed were correct). I have just taken apart one of G's forks and it has the same shallow seals as the first set
These shallow seals come nowhere near the retaining ring when seated! So I'm guessing the deeper ones from Yamaha are correct but would like confirmation.
G whomever rebuilt your forks was a hamfisted bassad. The top bolts were so tight that all my weight on the end of a 2 foot bar was needed to shift them (they only need to be 23Nm!). The allen key headed bolt at the bottom is so tight on one leg that I just cant shift it ...yet....gonna need some air power me thinks. Also one of the retaining rings isn't retaining !
Trying to think of a method of seperating the forks without using the slide hammer method which fegs up the bushes....any ideas?
Boop
dapleb
. The set that I rebuilt and musta bodged somehow, and the set from G which I also fegged.Does anyone with a mkI who has done a fork rebuild have the old seals still? If so, I would be very interested to know what size they are (its marked on the edge). The forks I rebuilt originally had much shallower seals than the replacement seals I got from Yamaha (which I assumed were correct). I have just taken apart one of G's forks and it has the same shallow seals as the first set
These shallow seals come nowhere near the retaining ring when seated! So I'm guessing the deeper ones from Yamaha are correct but would like confirmation.G whomever rebuilt your forks was a hamfisted bassad. The top bolts were so tight that all my weight on the end of a 2 foot bar was needed to shift them (they only need to be 23Nm!). The allen key headed bolt at the bottom is so tight on one leg that I just cant shift it ...yet....gonna need some air power me thinks. Also one of the retaining rings isn't retaining
!Trying to think of a method of seperating the forks without using the slide hammer method which fegs up the bushes....any ideas?
Boop
dapleb
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
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If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#91
dapleb
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Posted 28 August 2006 - 08:06 pm
Tried a few tricks to seperate the tube and stanchion without success. so the ole slide hammer feckin bush method was initiated. 
I don't think these ridges (that can be felt with a naked finger) are helping the sealing (argh arrgghh arrrggghhh) properties of G's fork!:
G_fork_ridge.jpg 29.8KB
135 downloads
Thats a whole lot of araldite needed for them bassads
.
Boop
dapleb
I don't think these ridges (that can be felt with a naked finger) are helping the sealing (argh arrgghh arrrggghhh) properties of G's fork!:
G_fork_ridge.jpg 29.8KB
135 downloadsThats a whole lot of araldite needed for them bassads
.Boop
dapleb
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#92
Tom S
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Posted 28 August 2006 - 09:04 pm
Dap, the old seal I have did not have the dimintions marked on it. This one.
It measures 10.75 to 10.80 mm thick.
Maybe the "allen key headed bolt at the bottom " has lok-tight on it, as per spec. Might try heating it up. Good luck!
It measures 10.75 to 10.80 mm thick.
Maybe the "allen key headed bolt at the bottom " has lok-tight on it, as per spec. Might try heating it up. Good luck!
#93
dapleb
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Monkey Boy
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Posted 28 August 2006 - 09:28 pm
Thanks for the info Tom.
Is that measurement of the hard edge not including the actual lip of the seal? I guess your seal doesn't have a gap between it and the retaining ring once fitted?
So both my old seals and G's seals are the wrong depth!
Is that measurement of the hard edge not including the actual lip of the seal? I guess your seal doesn't have a gap between it and the retaining ring once fitted?
So both my old seals and G's seals are the wrong depth!
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#94
Tom S
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Posted 28 August 2006 - 10:37 pm
??
Lip of the seal does not extend beyond the sides. Top lip is even with the top, outside of the seal & bottom lip is aprox 1.5mm recessed from bottom of hard sides
Gap between it and the retaining ring once fitted? If there is a gap, it is so minor that it is of no consequence.
I took measurements, vertical, of all the inside steps, location of clip, thickness of retaining washer, etc., when I was screwing up my 1st bush & seal installation. But they don't make sense to me now. I will do that again when I do the other fork & make a nice drawing so it is clear.
10.795 mm measured on a new seal. Forgot I had one & had done this before.
Dap, how thick are the seals you have? Does the lip extend past the outer edge? Don't sound right.
Lip of the seal does not extend beyond the sides. Top lip is even with the top, outside of the seal & bottom lip is aprox 1.5mm recessed from bottom of hard sides
Gap between it and the retaining ring once fitted? If there is a gap, it is so minor that it is of no consequence.
I took measurements, vertical, of all the inside steps, location of clip, thickness of retaining washer, etc., when I was screwing up my 1st bush & seal installation. But they don't make sense to me now. I will do that again when I do the other fork & make a nice drawing so it is clear.
10.795 mm measured on a new seal. Forgot I had one & had done this before.
Dap, how thick are the seals you have? Does the lip extend past the outer edge? Don't sound right.
#95
dapleb
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Posted 28 August 2006 - 11:07 pm
QUOTE(Tom S @ Mon 28th Aug 2006, 11:22 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Dap, how thick are the seals you have? Does the lip extend past the outer edge? Don't sound right.
Thanks again Tom
. The old seals I have removed; have a lip that extends beyond the outside edge. Your pic above is the same seal as Yamaha sent me, with the outer edge the same height as the entire seal! I also got some aftermarket seals and they sent me the shallower ones! Maybe Yamaha used seals with shallower outside edges in '91 and then changed the design to the one shown in your pic. 
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#96
Tom S
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Posted 28 August 2006 - 11:20 pm
Beats me dood. Sticker on my frame says it was built on 11 / '91.
Sun is out, I'm gonna go ride the Buell.
Sun is out, I'm gonna go ride the Buell.
#97
Bjørge
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Posted 09 May 2008 - 10:15 pm
QUOTE(dapleb @ Tue 29th Aug 2006, 12:52 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Thanks again Tom 
. The old seals I have removed; have a lip that extends beyond the outside edge. Your pic above is the same seal as Yamaha sent me, with the outer edge the same height as the entire seal! I also got some aftermarket seals and they sent me the shallower ones! Maybe Yamaha used seals with shallower outside edges in '91 and then changed the design to the one shown in your pic. 
. The old seals I have removed; have a lip that extends beyond the outside edge. Your pic above is the same seal as Yamaha sent me, with the outer edge the same height as the entire seal! I also got some aftermarket seals and they sent me the shallower ones! Maybe Yamaha used seals with shallower outside edges in '91 and then changed the design to the one shown in your pic. Hi !
I am experiencing the exact same problem today, only the part number is a bit different. I got seals numbered 5VU-23145-00, seemingly belonging to a FZ1000 or something like that. They don't fit, being too thick. Goning to my dealer tomorrow, a bit angry - my teflon bushings lasted the first dismantle, but not the second one
How did the 2006 story end (if you're still a tdm'er) ?
Bjorge
Bjørge
#98
TonyDevil
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Posted 09 May 2008 - 11:53 pm
QUOTE(Bjørge @ Fri 9th May 2008, 11:00 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Hi !
I am experiencing the exact same problem today, only the part number is a bit different. I got seals numbered 5VU-23145-00, seemingly belonging to a FZ1000 or something like that. They don't fit, being too thick. Goning to my dealer tomorrow, a bit angry - my teflon bushings lasted the first dismantle, but not the second one
How did the 2006 story end (if you're still a tdm'er) ?
Bjorge
I am experiencing the exact same problem today, only the part number is a bit different. I got seals numbered 5VU-23145-00, seemingly belonging to a FZ1000 or something like that. They don't fit, being too thick. Goning to my dealer tomorrow, a bit angry - my teflon bushings lasted the first dismantle, but not the second one
How did the 2006 story end (if you're still a tdm'er) ?
Bjorge
there are apparently 3 different sized fork seals listed for the 3VD 91-95 TDM
wish i'd written down the part number i used as it appears to be the right one
"Never argue with an idiot. They just bring you down to their level and beat you with experience"
My TDM :
Black 1991 850 MK1, 160k+ miles(ish, best guess really, gave up trying to keep count after 3rd set of clocks and 3rd engine), PilotRoad2 tyres, custom stubby exhaust system, bluespot calipers & goodridge braided hoses with dunlopads, maxton forks, Ohlins shock, kedo handguards, stainless TDM grill, Scottoiler with lubetube & dual nozzle thingy, Givi Wingrack2 with E45 & 2xE36s, renntec crash bars, Autocom with blueteeth & PMR radio, TomTom Rider2, Optimate IIIsp, Bagster tank cover, anti-dazzle coating
to fit : led spotlights, heated grips, new braided lines and rear caliper that actually has bleed nipples
Silver-ish 2003 900, 70k miles, PilotRoad3 front tyre (new@65k) & PR2 rear(new at 69k), Renthal 755 bars with KTM handguards, oxford unheated grips, power commander 3usb, scorpion titanium exhausts, standard screen with vario winglet thingy, stainless grill, oem centre stand, bagster tank cover, givi monokey topplate mounted on grabrail with V46 topbox, Givi PL pannier rails with E21s, crash bungs, mirror extender thingys, Halfords Advanced Laser Blue brillance bulbs, 21w led spotlights, touring scottoiler with leehenty dual nozzle, Autocom with blueteeth & PMR radio, TomTom Rider3 Urban, winter style anti-dazzle coating
to fit : led brake light strip, replacement heated grips
current rides : TDM850 3vd/mk1=tourer&scratcher, TRX850=weekend twisty toy, 2003 TDM900=commuter, 2005 TDM900=unmolested. Gone but not forgotton : XTZ750=overland touring toy, GS500e, GS125
If a strange looking truck driver honks at you & gives you the thumbs up, its could be me 
#99
dapleb
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Posted 10 May 2008 - 12:16 am
I have fitted both the large seals as shown in Toms photo and the one that are less deep. Not sure which ones came first or why the change. Will try and dig oot pics and part no's if oi gits time.
Me? Yeah of course still a TDM'er.
Me rebuilt forks (what leaked) stayed with G's boike.....currently residing with Tony's mate? G's forks are here (what leaked) and are scrap cos of undulating chrome bits.Me orig forks (what hardly leaked at all) were rebuilt usin some seals (argh arrrghh argggh) wot Emmett gived me and they are on me boike still.
QUOTE(Bjørge @ Fri 9th May 2008, 11:00 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
How did the 2006 story end (if you're still a tdm'er) ?
Me? Yeah of course still a TDM'er.
Me rebuilt forks (what leaked) stayed with G's boike.....currently residing with Tony's mate? G's forks are here (what leaked) and are scrap cos of undulating chrome bits.Me orig forks (what hardly leaked at all) were rebuilt usin some seals (argh arrrghh argggh) wot Emmett gived me and they are on me boike still.
"Whats up", "Piston Broke", "Yeah me too...hic"
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
If you want to mark your location on the Carpe map: http://www.carpe-tdm...opic.php?t=5117
Doin valve clearances? Use dappers valve shim exchange program and the job will be carroty - Free (other than you postin me yer shims) for sporting members.
Active member of TPLQHCSRSFC and TSRMCMAS (even though a year off) and avid fan of PM not sent.
#100
Tom S
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Posted 10 May 2008 - 07:33 am
Bjorge, if you are asking me.
The problem I had was, of course, my own fault. Like I said my looong post #80, I did not have the top bush fully seated.
I pulled the 2 fork pieces apart again by just holding them in my hands. I properly seated the upper bush & everything went very smooth after that. Pushed in the dust seal with my fingers, as it should be.
Don't know what to tell you about the part # on the seal you have. 'Cept this:
In this post,
http://www.carpe-tdm...&...post&p=9947
Steve psd said:
"My parts list, current as of just a year or so ago, shows the fork seal as part # 3VD-23145-00-00. 3VD is the Yamaha model number for a TDM; 23145 is a fork seal. Your seal # 3GM-23145 is for a 1990 FZR1000."
Well, I had the right seal. Yammie parts often interchange. It measured approximately 10.75 to 10.80 mm thick. Did you measure your seal? Maybe you are having the same problem I had without having top bushing fully seated.
Sadly, I no longer have the TDM.
Traded it to a guy last spring in part trade for a smokin hot deal on a fully farkled, low mile. tons of spares, prepaid services, still under warrantee, 2006 Buell Ulysses.
He turned around & sold the TDM in two days for less than I would have. Then he bought a used GS. Boo! Just when I found out a friend wanted the TDM. Bummer.
I never did change the oil or seal in the left fork.
The problem I had was, of course, my own fault. Like I said my looong post #80, I did not have the top bush fully seated.
I pulled the 2 fork pieces apart again by just holding them in my hands. I properly seated the upper bush & everything went very smooth after that. Pushed in the dust seal with my fingers, as it should be.
Don't know what to tell you about the part # on the seal you have. 'Cept this:
In this post,
http://www.carpe-tdm...&...post&p=9947
Steve psd said:
"My parts list, current as of just a year or so ago, shows the fork seal as part # 3VD-23145-00-00. 3VD is the Yamaha model number for a TDM; 23145 is a fork seal. Your seal # 3GM-23145 is for a 1990 FZR1000."
Well, I had the right seal. Yammie parts often interchange. It measured approximately 10.75 to 10.80 mm thick. Did you measure your seal? Maybe you are having the same problem I had without having top bushing fully seated.
Sadly, I no longer have the TDM.
Traded it to a guy last spring in part trade for a smokin hot deal on a fully farkled, low mile. tons of spares, prepaid services, still under warrantee, 2006 Buell Ulysses.
He turned around & sold the TDM in two days for less than I would have. Then he bought a used GS. Boo! Just when I found out a friend wanted the TDM. Bummer.
I never did change the oil or seal in the left fork.
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