132 replies to this topic

[steve27bha]

Hi Tpeti. I've read your stuff on the VFR on BikersOracle.

 

Your pic looks OK to me. In it you are not exactly level with the top of the head. If you were the exhaust cog mark on the right would be below the top of the head by about the same amount as the inlet mark is above it. In other words the cogs both need to move clockwise by a fraction to have the two marks level with the edge of the head, showing they are timed to each other correctly. It looks to me as if you have stopped turning the crank a fraction too early and before TDC. That's IMHO anyway.

 

Re. how to reassemble, I would definitely zip tie the chain to the cogs and follow the other advice in post #42 on page 3 above. It worked for me. Note the comments about the error in the WSM for the cover bolt torque.

 

Anyone else got a comment?

[drewpy]

when I did mine, the whole thing parted so had the retime tdc etc.

 

did it in the summer so I could see what I was doing.

 

Also check the alloy cam bearing in the head, mine where very nearly closed  up. Had to run a greased drill bit through to open up

[Tpeti]

Hi Tpeti. I've read your stuff on the VFR on BikersOracle.

 

Your pic looks OK to me. In it you are not exactly level with the top of the head. If you were the exhaust cog mark on the right would be below the top of the head by about the same amount as the inlet mark is above it. In other words the cogs both need to move clockwise by a fraction to have the two marks level with the edge of the head, showing they are timed to each other correctly. It looks to me as if you have stopped turning the crank a fraction too early and before TDC. That's IMHO anyway.

 

Re. how to reassemble, I would definitely zip tie the chain to the cogs and follow the other advice in post #42 on page 3 above. It worked for me. Note the comments about the error in the WSM for the cover bolt torque.

 

Anyone else got a comment?

 

You were right, I just moved the crackshaft a bit and aligned it nicely. I decided to go ahead with the work so I removed the camshafts. I did the zip tie trick and stayed nicely there. I checked the installed pads, will do the math and order whatever I need.

I attach a pic, I could see on the top are the another marks, so I did mark with a dab of paint, so I have got two things to align with.

 

 

when I did mine, the whole thing parted so had the retime tdc etc.

 

did it in the summer so I could see what I was doing.

 

Also check the alloy cam bearing in the head, mine where very nearly closed  up. Had to run a greased drill bit through to open up

 

Ohm, never heard or read about it. Where is it exactly?

Attached Files

•  tdm2.jpg   70.95KB   1 downloads

[James]

This might help - http://www.carpe-tdm...topic=35029&hl= - see post #7

[drewpy]

 

Ohm, never heard or read about it. Where is it exactly?

http://www.carpe-tdm...aft#entry340993

[Bjørge]

I used zip ties to avoid skipping of teeth :-)

[Tpeti]

I have received the shims today so I have put back the camshafts and chain tensioner. I moved the engine 2 full revolution to oil everything. Tomorrow will listen if there is any metal noise and will check the timing.
The zip tie trick worked very well, saved me a lot of hassle!
I want to thank everyone for the help!

[spike240]

I have read through this thread a few times with a view of maybe checking clearances next winter. Sounds a right ball-ache. If a shim needs changing, and the chain tie-wrapped to the cogs - are the camshafts manipulated out of the way while you extract the shims. What stops the chain slipping off the cog on the crankshaft?

[steve27bha]

 - are the camshafts manipulated out of the way while you extract the shims. What stops the chain slipping off the cog on the crankshaft?

 

1. Yes. After zip-tying the chain to the cog and then removing the caps you can lift the camshaft aside. Do one at a time. Pic shows exhaust camshaft lifted and rotated backwards so the zip-tie has moved down to the 9 o'clock position (from 11) and become almost invisible.

 DSC08359.JPG   144.83KB   2 downloads

 

2. Dunno exactly but keeping it all under tension as you move stuff, and only doing one camshaft at a time kept all mine in order.

 

HTH

Edited by steve27bha, 01 May 2018 - 09:28 pm.

[spike240]

Wasn't expecting that. A photo. Brilliant. A picture paints a thousand words. Thank you. I see also you use a couple of bolts to stop it moving about.
Many thanks

[spike240]

Did you remove the camchain tensioer mechanism prior as in Lee Hentys original tutorial?

[Bjørge]

Did you remove the camchain tensioer mechanism prior as in Lee Hentys original tutorial?

Well, you have to ! Otherwise cam chain will be too tight to handle....I guess....

[spike240]

Ok thanks. Just trying to familiarise myself with the job. Mind you I won't be doing this job until winter, so I will have forgotten most of this by then so will return to this post then. Anything I should know when removing the camchain tensioner?

[Studley Ramrod]

Just be sure you have no.1 cylinder at TDC.  Easy enough to do with the rocker cover removed as the cam lobes will be facing away from each other.

[steve27bha]

From your comments I take it you have read post #42 above from Geordie Guy with Mr Henty's comments included. That has an "open top" pic too.

 

There is another thread by GG that I contributed to about the coolant pipe into the head cover here that should be of interest.

 

I also had a Yamaha Shop Manual as my main source. These are available as a .PDF on t'net. Just make sure you get the one appropriate for your bike (year / ABS?) based on the model code shown on a label on the frame under the seat.

[spike240]

Yes I have read both threads. I am trying to familiarise myself with everything beforehand. Like I said earlier it will be winter before I do this job, so will have to refresh several times cos I have a crap memory.

[spike240]

 Hi everyone - me again. I have stripped the bike to get at the valve cover, got the coolant pipe out, hoovering the crap as I went.

Thinking ahead, if I have to adjust some clearances, can someone talk me through removing and replacing the camchain tensioner please? I thought I'd read somewhere that after removal the CCT has to be rewound before replacing.

Many thanks.

[TKH]

I have read through this thread a few times with a view of maybe checking clearances next winter. Sounds a right ball-ache. If a shim needs changing, and the chain tie-wrapped to the cogs - are the camshafts manipulated out of the way while you extract the shims. What stops the chain slipping off the cog on the crankshaft?

 

Keep the chain and cams together, zip tied sounds a good idea if it keeps the tension to stop the chain slipping on the crank end. When I did mine I marked it but then it dropped off the wire I was using. Got it back ok but them had to start from scratch, what a complete ball ache. Also reminds me I need to send the shims back.

[Robk321]

Resurrecting an old post but I have an issue.
A friend of a friend who is a mechanic I asked to do my valves. He told me that he couldn't undo a 6mm nut holding the water pipe and was afraid of snapping it off.
I am assuming this is the pipe shown in the photos above now I have done the research.
So the bike came back without the valves checked.
Only 21k at the moment so maybe it was a little early anyway.
Surely when the time comes to do them a yamaha dealer will be able to do this job?
They must have come across this issue before with the 900 as it appears others have.
Or maybe he was just a crap mechanic!!

Edited by Robk321, 29 April 2020 - 03:20 pm.

[dapleb]

Plenty on ear who can solve that common prob, though I completely understand why a friend of a friend didn't want to snap it off. Whereas yamahay will be able to spin a yarn aboot coroded tube and bolt extraction and charge for snapping it off. .....or more realistically...they go vroom vroom listen.... Vroooooom listen.....and then declare the clearance check a success.