115 replies to this topic

[frits44]

Hello David,

 

I had the same problems with my 2012 model TDM 900, this is what I did after testing a few things.

Lift your fuel tank and remove on each side 10 cm foam it will give you more air,modify the cover of your air box as I did ( see short movie ).

Remove the foam at the air inlet side.

After that relocate your A.I.T sensor too the front of the bike.

Set your Co settings on both cylinders to C1 25, and C2 25 with stock exhaust, with open exhaust Co settings to more then 50 on both.

Be sure your engine runs at idle on 1200 to 1300 R.P.M when its hot.

Whit these simple mods your bike must run very smooth in low R.P.M and stronger and faster.

Every thing is reversible, and it will cost you almost nothing.

I fixed 30 bikes here in holland the same way, and all of them runs very good now.

With half open exhaust you can do more with the bike.

 

 

 

Greetings, Frits from Hollans

[davmoon]

Thanks Frits I will try these mods. Greetings to Holland.

 

Regards David

[fixitsan]

I am new to the TDM 900 and have just recently bought a 2012 (62) machine. I was recommended this site to help with my fuelling problems. I had already fitted a BoosterPlug which went someway towards sorting the low speed throttle snatch but it was still difficult to keep the bike smooth around 30 mph/ 3000 rpm. I did the air-box mod and noticed an immediate improvement. When I tried to richen the mixture, everything worked but it made no difference to the running of the engine! my base readings were C1 14 and C2 16. I only tried C1 and went up to 35 with no noticeable change in the engine note, I expected it to speed up initially then start to labour when it became too rich. As a result I didn't bother with C2. Just because I could, I increased both sides by 5! I have a Gunsons colourtune which I could use if anyone thinks it's worth it? Otherwise it looks like it would need a lot of money spent on a dyno run. I am unable to road test at the moment. I'm sure someone out there has some good advice for me. Is there anything else I can do to the air-box? So far, I have just removed the brown/black wire from the ecu connector.

 

Regards David

 

 

David, the 2 values are per cylinder.....if you increase one by, say, 20 then increase the other by the same amount. I believe these figures are the trim values for the throttle bodies.... you don't have much of a difference between the two at the moment, but it's good practice to always keep the difference the same, in this case new values would be C1=34, C2=36.

 

These values adjust low rpm/light load running so they make no difference to mid/high load running. I once posted the results of someone's dyno runs, which virtually proved that as well as the C1/C2 values only adjusting low load, the throttle position sensor and mapping/lambda sensor controls the mid load, and the highest load peak performance running is done in 'open loop' configuration, where the O2 sensor is ignored completely. The guy who made the graph found there was very little difference from 2800rpm upwards regardless of how high C1/C2 were set. (he tested them up to a setting of 90)

 

In old fashioned carb terminalogy, what we seem to be adjusting is the idle air mixture/1st choke mixture (in equivalent twin choke carb setups)

[davmoon]

Thanks fixitsan. That now makes sense of my problems. i guess it's trial and error and no point in a dyno run! 

 

Much obliged to you regards David

[fixitsan]

Thanks fixitsan. That now makes sense of my problems. i guess it's trial and error and no point in a dyno run! 

 

Much obliged to you regards David

 

I set mine both +25 to what they were before. I've added a 300 Ohm resistor in series with the intake air sensor in the airbox (gives about +4$ more fuel), and advanced the timing +4 degrees for better pickup (By slotting the flywheel pickup sensor mounting holes) it really runs great !  (Oh and I've hacked the top of the airbox off (I bought a spare from ebay for a few pounds)

[Catteeclan]

Since removing the top of my air box, coupled with some very open exhausts I now have very noticeable clutch slip. Think the last owner has used car oil.
I still have a very snatchy low rpm throttle, thinking about disconnecting the oxygen sensor.

[muddy]

Since removing the top of my air box, coupled with some very open exhausts I now have very noticeable clutch slip. Think the last owner has used car oil.
I still have a very snatchy low rpm throttle, thinking about disconnecting the oxygen sensor.

Well you do have my old cans and they made that infuriating on/off worse. Some people have reposition the sensor I've read. Recently I added 10 on the CO settings and it improved things a bit. What's the S10 fuelling like?

In regards to clutch slip the worst I had was using Hein Gerrike oil and car oil with fancy additives. Since using generic stuff haven't had a single case of slipping.

[Catteeclan]

Well you do have my old cans and they made that infuriating on/off worse. Some people have reposition the sensor I've read. Recently I added 10 on the CO settings and it improved things a bit. What's the S10 fuelling like?

In regards to clutch slip the worst I had was using Hein Gerrike oil and car oil with fancy additives. Since using generic stuff haven't had a single case of slipping.

 

Then cans are stubby now so prob worse. My CO is now 50 each side which if honest didn't seem to help at all, only put it up so high as I'd got the cans and foam filters now.

 

S10 fuelling's fine, you know it's injected if you know what I mean. Can't help looking at the Africa twin. Only looking mind.

[JohnChandler]

^{Do the two buttons on the dash do anything else? Does anyone have a menu for their operation please?}

^cheers

^john.

[Rallyist]

^{Do the two buttons on the dash do anything else? Does anyone have a menu for their operation please?}

^cheers

^john.

Look here http://www.tdm-yamah...ex.php?page=MCO

[JohnChandler]

Thanks Rallyist

[Oldgit59]

Hi all. I'm a new owner of a 2010 9er with Mivv carbon cans and maybe no cats. I did the air flap disable mod using wire 8 on the ECU. Better but not great. I increased the CO from 14 and 19 in steps up to 90. Again better but not great. Header pipes have slight blueing. Spark plugs checked completely clean, no sandy colour. If the fuel mix that is indicated by the plugs colour is controlled by the ECU and the CO adjustment has no effect how can the mixture be improved to get the right plugs colour? Frits44 what tool do you have to measure the exhaust gas %? Cannot believe this bike has so much problems in this area from a top manufacturer. Thanks Tony

[TKH]

Hi Tony and welcome. The standard bike is set up for standard cans and cats to reach EU emissions. To me sounds like you're running a bit weak/hot if the exhausts are blue, the down pipes usually go a bronze colour. The easy way as with any other bike is to add something that will allow you control over the amount of fuel used and when. For example power commander (although these can now only be got second hand for the 9'er) or the dobeck unit. There are others. You might also have a basic tuning problem,  e.g. the throttle bodies might be out of balance. How many miles has the bike done? Does it need major service? The 9'er is good for many miles - some on here have over 100k miles on them, but as with any bike, just keep on top of the maintenance. There are other mods you can make depending on the model, e.g. remapping the ECU, changing the timing, etc.

[Oldgit59]

Hi TKH thanks for your quick response. The 9er has 21k Kms, had the 20k service at the dealer when I bought it. The rest of the pipes are bronze coloured, maybe 10 cms of blue from the cylinder head. The apparent leanness is odd if the mixture is controlled by the ECU with sensor input. I am waiting a Twinmax tool for the throttle body balance. I have checked air box boots for good condition and tight connection, all is good.
Cannot imagine where else extra air can be entering, especially seeing many of the mods proposed are to increase air flow. I saw the idea to move the air intake temp sensor out of the airbox to the front of the bike to spoof the ECU to add more fuel. I may try this next after the throttle balance.

[Oldgit59]

I see that the Dobeck and Power Commander are only available for up to 2007, I see no applicability for 2010 bikes.

[TKH]

I see that the Dobeck and Power Commander are only available for up to 2007, I see no applicability for 2010 bikes.

 

Try contacting Dobeck. I have one on my 2008 bike. I allows you to control the fuelling as though the system was a carburettor. There is a bit of info on here re the unit. I think it was Masterbrewer who kicked the thread off.

 

When I fitted after market cans to mine it mucked up the fuelling but I'm back to stock cans now.

 

Is your air filter clear? Sorry I don't trust dealers to do the job they say they did. At 21k Kms assume that they did https://www.tdm-yama...ex.php?page=SR9 .

 

Is your bike missing, cutting out, rough running, not pulling evenly?

Low down the rev range the stock 9'er is a little hesitant and can be a bit jerky at low revs which can be resolved in different ways.

 

If you like the bike, in my mind, it's worthwhile getting it just right. I've got the Dobeck unit on mine and it changed things a lot for me and my riding style. I can't say either way if it will help you or not but I'd try the other things first (e.g. throttle body balancing) to see if they work.

I'm surprised no-one else has chipped in as there is quite a lot of help on this site.

 

JBX site is also worth a look. https://www.tdm-yama...ex.php?page=CS1

Edited by TKH, 21 December 2019 - 12:19 pm.

[Oldgit59]

Thanks again for your quick response. I went over the service items to be sure that they had been done. Air filter looks new and standard. The plugs are new but were not well tightened (ie finger tight plus a quarter to half a turn). This is now done and with time I'll get a torque wrench in there. I'm waiting for the Twinmax to arrive for the throttle balance. I'm wondering if the butterflies may have been adjusted previously and might not be opening the same amount at the same time. I need to find how to measure the static gap and how to adjust. I did this on my carbs for the Dragstar 650 tuning by ear and it continues to work really well. I don't imagine the throttle body butterflies behave any differently with the throttle twist grip but need to know how to adjust if not the same. I may also move the air intake temp sensor out of the air box to see if that improves things. There's slight hiccups at low revs around 2000, and with the revs held constant around 3000 in neutral there's a definite missing a beat. Under load the bike accelerates well, fuel consumption around 5l per 100km.
I'd like to get a workshop manual but can only find a Scribbed example on line requiring monthly payments. As I only want one book this isn't a good solution. Any ideas where to source please?

[Studley Ramrod]

pm me your email address and I'll send you a copy of the 2002 service manual and the User manual if they're any use to you.

 

EDIT: Manuals emailed.

[TKH]

Maybe you're getting cold start mechanism issues? I've pointed you to the site where you can get the guide that Studders refers to. Don't be put off by it being 2002. While there have been some changes much is still the same. As with all vehicles they are improved on over time rather than radically changed.

[Oldgit59]

Hi and thanks again. My email is ton********gmail.com. I'll also look for your pointed link and investigate the cold start mechanism for correct operation.