Don' Panic Mr Mianewaring. Probably just stuck, patience and oily stuff will cure it. Happens to mine over Christmas every year.
Fast Idle Plunger Repair (TDM 900) [ie Cold Start ]
Started by
Guest_E.T._*
, Jul 28 2007 09:02 pm
153 replies to this topic
#42
Guest_Kelpie_*
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Posted 14 December 2008 - 04:23 pm
QUOTE(celticbiker @ Sun 14th Dec 2008, 02:04 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Don' Panic Mr Mianewaring. Probably just stuck, patience and oily stuff will cure it. Happens to mine over Christmas every year.
Mine moves freely but still doesn't go left when it's warm! And I'm MRS Mainwaring!
#43
Guest_trevini_*
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Posted 14 December 2008 - 05:09 pm
If the linkage itself is free, it could be worth checking the pin on the thermo valve thingy is free to move also. Are you getting an increase in revs when the engine is cold, or is it idling slower than your normal idle of 1200ish rpm?
#44
Guest_E.T._*
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Posted 14 December 2008 - 07:36 pm
QUOTE(Kelpie @ Sun 14th Dec 2008, 12:09 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Had a look at the cold start thingy yesterday. It's moving freely, but it's not moving left when the bike's warm. Sounds like the wax element is fupped. Now what? 
Take it off the bike and have a look at it, it's easy to dismantle, take alook at the wax cartridge and see if it looks fecked.
Bare in mind my comment that you can't buy the wax cartridge..well you can for £1200+...so I would consider checking out thoroughly first!
#45
Guest_celticbiker_*
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Posted 14 December 2008 - 07:37 pm
What he said.
The steel pin seizes in the alloy housing.
#46
Baron
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Posted 15 December 2008 - 11:49 pm
QUOTE(divvxj @ Tue 11th Nov 2008, 09:52 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
if i can reach the plunger with a pair of curved pliars would i be able to push the plunger in and then give it a good soak with oil!!!!!
That's exactly what I did with my 04 9'er and it worked a treat.
Gone but not forgotten: 2007 TDM900ABS Competition White, datatagged, fenda extenda, tomtom rider 1, Yamaha main stand, Yamaha heated grips, HID headlights, Yamaha top box & city side cases, MRA Vario screen, CLS200 automatic chain oiler, Yamaha belly pan, DL650 handguards, Gi-Pro X gear indicator, SW-Motech Mirror Extensions, LED side light, Stebel Nautilus AIR HORN!!!!!
(1974....KTM Comet Cross, RD250B, XS750, Wife & kids, DT175, Suzuki GT500, XT500, XT500 (modified), ZX-10 (the 1st one!), Yamaha TT600R, Suzuki GT750B, GT750K, '04 TDM900, GSX1100F, '07 TDM900A, '06 FJR1300A
(1974....KTM Comet Cross, RD250B, XS750, Wife & kids, DT175, Suzuki GT500, XT500, XT500 (modified), ZX-10 (the 1st one!), Yamaha TT600R, Suzuki GT750B, GT750K, '04 TDM900, GSX1100F, '07 TDM900A, '06 FJR1300A
#47
Guest_Kelpie_*
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Posted 16 December 2008 - 09:05 am
QUOTE(E.T. @ Sun 14th Dec 2008, 07:36 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Take it off the bike and have a look at it, it's easy to dismantle, take alook at the wax cartridge and see if it looks fecked.
Bare in mind my comment that you can't buy the wax cartridge..well you can for £1200+...so I would consider checking out thoroughly first!
Bare in mind my comment that you can't buy the wax cartridge..well you can for £1200+...so I would consider checking out thoroughly first!
Thanks ET. I'll do that. Got a day off today to go Xmas shopping (YUKYUKYUK) so it'll be hard to resist the temptation to tear into the bike!
#48
divvxj
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Posted 16 December 2008 - 06:14 pm
QUOTE(Baron @ Tue 16th Dec 2008, 01:49 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
That's exactly what I did with my 04 9'er and it worked a treat.
this is what i did and i havent had any problems since ,where the plunger comes out and presses on the slide i have been giving that a little push and pull and a wee spray of oil now and again
#49
GrahamI
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Carpe junky
- Location:Wargrave, Reading
- TDM model: 2004
Posted 21 January 2009 - 02:56 pm
Thanks to this great description from ET I managed to clean up my plunger last night (ooh err missus) so a big cheers to ET for his work 
A word of warning for anyone who is using the wiggle and spray method, i had tried this and the pliers had marked the plunger a little, this made it a bit difficult to remove the plunger and clean it up - but repeated twisting and plungin in and out (stop it) sorted it - I guess if you have been using the pliers a lot and are as heavy handed as me with them then you may come in to a problem if/when you do remove the unit to clean it up
A word of warning for anyone who is using the wiggle and spray method, i had tried this and the pliers had marked the plunger a little, this made it a bit difficult to remove the plunger and clean it up - but repeated twisting and plungin in and out (stop it) sorted it - I guess if you have been using the pliers a lot and are as heavy handed as me with them then you may come in to a problem if/when you do remove the unit to clean it up
Graham
Blue 2004 900 on 04 plate, Kappa Wingrack and side cases, Givi Maxia top box, Renthal 755 bars, Oxford heated grips, KTM handguards, centre stand, fender extender, Scottoiler Touring, 12volt socket
#50
GrahamI
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Posted 03 February 2009 - 06:03 pm
QUOTE(E.T. @ Sat 28th Jul 2007, 09:02 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
One other point was I found it difficult to get the air box located onto the throttle body air intakes. In the end I split the box took out the airfilter so I could guide the rubbers over the intakes - lot easier.
I had the airbox off today and this time I put the securing screw in place (not tight) and then pushed the airbox on to the throttle bodies, it seemed to go on a lot easier than previous attempts - might be worth a try!
Graham
Blue 2004 900 on 04 plate, Kappa Wingrack and side cases, Givi Maxia top box, Renthal 755 bars, Oxford heated grips, KTM handguards, centre stand, fender extender, Scottoiler Touring, 12volt socket
#51
Guest_Kelpie_*
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Posted 25 April 2009 - 10:04 am
My fast idle has been stuck since I got the bike in October. I decided to tackle it the other day and thanks to this thread, I've partially sorted it.
Due to lack of time and resources, I couldn't take the whole unit off, but accessed the siezed pin through the end of the unit by removing the small pipes and undoing the screws with a very long screw driver, though the gap in the frame. I drifted out the well-and-truly-stuck pin using a bit of wood and a hammer and now my idle is down to normal (it was permanently around 1500 rpm and bloody annoying)although the pin still isn't free. It means I have to screw up the idle a wee bit for cold starting but this won't be a problem, I don't think, till the colder weather comes in.
Several bleeding knuckles later, I've left it all covered in copper grease and I've a mechanic mate coming to service both bikes next week and he's going to take a look at it to try and get a permanent solution to the problem.
Thanks for such an informative post!
Katie
Due to lack of time and resources, I couldn't take the whole unit off, but accessed the siezed pin through the end of the unit by removing the small pipes and undoing the screws with a very long screw driver, though the gap in the frame. I drifted out the well-and-truly-stuck pin using a bit of wood and a hammer and now my idle is down to normal (it was permanently around 1500 rpm and bloody annoying)although the pin still isn't free. It means I have to screw up the idle a wee bit for cold starting but this won't be a problem, I don't think, till the colder weather comes in.
Several bleeding knuckles later, I've left it all covered in copper grease and I've a mechanic mate coming to service both bikes next week and he's going to take a look at it to try and get a permanent solution to the problem.
Thanks for such an informative post!
Katie
#52
Sparra
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Carpe junky
- Location:Sydney Australia
- TDM model: 2002
Posted 29 July 2009 - 07:14 am
Just did mine. Managed to get the screws out with a pair of vice grips, so no need to undo radiator hoses. Replaced the screws with M5 30mm allen key head screws as per instructions. Wasn't as bad a job as I expected. Thanks for the instructions guys.
2002 TDM900. BMW 1150gs handguards, Oxford heated grips, Staintune exhausts, airbox mod, re-moulded seat, bar risers, Powerlec adaptor, bluetooth, 2way comms, K & N filter, Nonfango hard luggage, center stand, polished alloy wheels, (I'm not gunna)crash knobs
#53
OldGreyWizard
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Carpe groupie
- Location:Flitwick, Bedfordshire
- TDM model: 2005
Posted 13 February 2011 - 08:34 pm
I spent most of this morning sorting out myFast Idle Plunger. It was well siezed. One of the plunger screws came out using the bit held in molegrips method, the other with a hammer and cold chisel. I managed to avoid having to drain down the read. I replaced the screws with M5 bolts, Halfords didn't have any suitable allen bolts and I need to use the bike tonight. Getting the Airbox back on was tricky, you need to undo the clamps to the max. The Fast Idle now working again and the bike is running better.
Thanks for all of your previous posts, potentially saved me lots of £'s. I recon a dealer would charge at least 3 hours labour for the job.
Thanks for all of your previous posts, potentially saved me lots of £'s. I recon a dealer would charge at least 3 hours labour for the job.
#54
Chris B
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just half a litre to go
- TDM model: 2002
Posted 14 February 2011 - 11:40 am
Do what I do and whenever it gets stuck get a 1/2 inch extension and a rubber mallet find the plunger on the LHS of the bike and git it a few taps, always has freed it off for me.
02 TDM 900, Silver. 85k miles
Givi Box + panniers, Baglux Cover, Baglux Bag, R&Gs, Remus Cans, PC3, Air Box Mod, DL handguards, Hel Hoses, Heated Grips, LED Lights on handguards, Scottoiler, Scorpion Rad guard, Top Sellerie Seat, Gear Indicator, Stebel Nautilus, Wilbers Rear Shock, MCT reworked forks.
#55
SteveK
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Posted 29 March 2011 - 01:20 pm
On the advice of kind persons I have stripped the fast idle plunger assembly off my 9'er. What a job! Not wishing to go through this again I resolved to affect a 'permanent solution' after all my 1957 BSA Bantam had lube points all over it!
The problem was indeed corrosion but as the pin is stainless steel (and clean) I can only assume the alloy of the housing is to blame.
All cleaned up and working freely I took measurements of the 'neck' of the housing (where the pin exits). I made a brass collar, from a spare pneumatic fitting, and drilled out the centre to be a push fit over the neck. This collar has a 2.5mm hole drilled through the wall to match up with a similar hole I drilled in the neck. A small bore brass tube is soldered into this collar hole forming a press fit 'banjo'.
A tube (actually the insulation from a multimeter test lead) is a push fit over the brass tube and leads out, through the frame, near the headstock. I can now lubricate the pin using a syringe containing 3in1 oil.
As you can see I also took the oportunity to replace the Crass head screws with cap heads and studs/nuts - just in case!
I'm sure Mr Henty could make a better job of the banjo but I dont have his facilities (jealous!!)
The problem was indeed corrosion but as the pin is stainless steel (and clean) I can only assume the alloy of the housing is to blame.
All cleaned up and working freely I took measurements of the 'neck' of the housing (where the pin exits). I made a brass collar, from a spare pneumatic fitting, and drilled out the centre to be a push fit over the neck. This collar has a 2.5mm hole drilled through the wall to match up with a similar hole I drilled in the neck. A small bore brass tube is soldered into this collar hole forming a press fit 'banjo'.
A tube (actually the insulation from a multimeter test lead) is a push fit over the brass tube and leads out, through the frame, near the headstock. I can now lubricate the pin using a syringe containing 3in1 oil.
As you can see I also took the oportunity to replace the Crass head screws with cap heads and studs/nuts - just in case!
I'm sure Mr Henty could make a better job of the banjo but I dont have his facilities (jealous!!)
Full Givi luggage, MRA flip screen with German import top blade, Garmin sat nav, LED running lights, heated grips, Fender extender.
Follow my 2013 Pyrenees tour on http://pyreneestdm.tumblr.com
Follow my 2013 Pyrenees tour on http://pyreneestdm.tumblr.com
#56
dmmsta
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- Location:Marden, Kent, UK.
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Posted 29 March 2011 - 01:30 pm
Gotta love the Carpe "fettles".
Genius idea.
Now, i've got to get mine off again to investigate this...only problem is the taffy screws that Yam decided to use to affix it to the engine are on their last legs so need to replace them.
Go on be a devil - what are the details of them there threads so I can source replacements...
Genius idea.
Now, i've got to get mine off again to investigate this...only problem is the taffy screws that Yam decided to use to affix it to the engine are on their last legs so need to replace them.
Go on be a devil - what are the details of them there threads so I can source replacements...
MY06 TDM 900 Blue over Silver 
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Fuel Pipes
Givi Top Box
Renthal 758's
Grip Puppies
MRA Bubble
Dip & Hi HIDs
To-Do:
LED DRLs
Loobman
Powercoat Wheels
Hand Guards
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MY04 TDM 900 Blue over Silver Parts Bin
MY02 TDM 900 Yellow over Black RIP
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...
...
...
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Fuel Pipes
Givi Top Box
Renthal 758's
Grip Puppies
MRA Bubble
Dip & Hi HIDs
To-Do:
LED DRLs
Loobman
Powercoat Wheels
Hand Guards
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............
#57
SteveK
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Knight of Postsalot
- Location:Bristol. UK
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Posted 29 March 2011 - 01:37 pm
QUOTE(dmmsta @ Tue 29th Mar 2011, 02:30 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Gotta love the Carpe "fettles".
Genius idea.
Now, i've got to get mine off again to investigate this...only problem is the taffy screws that Yam decided to use to affix it to the engine are on their last legs so need to replace them.
Go on be a devil - what are the details of them there threads so I can source replacements...
Genius idea.
Now, i've got to get mine off again to investigate this...only problem is the taffy screws that Yam decided to use to affix it to the engine are on their last legs so need to replace them.
Go on be a devil - what are the details of them there threads so I can source replacements...
I knew someone would ask that question,
Both types M5
Screws to injector block 30mm thread length.
Screws to hold housing together, thread length 13mm (I've used 16mm with no problem).
Steve
Full Givi luggage, MRA flip screen with German import top blade, Garmin sat nav, LED running lights, heated grips, Fender extender.
Follow my 2013 Pyrenees tour on http://pyreneestdm.tumblr.com
Follow my 2013 Pyrenees tour on http://pyreneestdm.tumblr.com
#58
dmmsta
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supporter of the "Anti-Dazzle" Club
- Location:Marden, Kent, UK.
- TDM model: 2006
Posted 29 March 2011 - 01:54 pm
QUOTE(SteveK @ Tue 29th Mar 2011, 02:37 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I knew someone would ask that question,
Both types M5
Screws to injector block 30mm thread length.
Screws to hold housing together, thread length 13mm (I've used 16mm with no problem).
Steve
Both types M5
Screws to injector block 30mm thread length.
Screws to hold housing together, thread length 13mm (I've used 16mm with no problem).
Steve
Top man
MY06 TDM 900 Blue over Silver
-----
Fuel Pipes
Givi Top Box
Renthal 758's
Grip Puppies
MRA Bubble
Dip & Hi HIDs
To-Do:
LED DRLs
Loobman
Powercoat Wheels
Hand Guards
-----
MY04 TDM 900 Blue over Silver Parts Bin
MY02 TDM 900 Yellow over Black RIP
............
-----
Fuel Pipes
Givi Top Box
Renthal 758's
Grip Puppies
MRA Bubble
Dip & Hi HIDs
To-Do:
LED DRLs
Loobman
Powercoat Wheels
Hand Guards
-----
............
#59
JBX
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full o shoite
- Location:South France
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Posted 29 March 2011 - 02:55 pm
I'm sure someone will feed that device with a scottoiler !
#60
leehenty
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Backstreet Mechanikin'
- Location:Rushden Northamptonshire.
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Posted 29 March 2011 - 03:26 pm
Sizes ... The bore of the banjo that fits over the nose that's what we need to know.
2002 900 silver,oil pressure switch with brass 90 degree conversion, RG fork protectors. Wilburs custom made rear Shock with remote hydraulic preload and RG shocktube, Wilburs front springs. Scotoiler with a custom made swing arm delivery unit. Silicone radiator hoses.BMW 1150 handguards with Touratech extensions, Carbon Fibre yoke cover and fender extenda, MRA flip screen, Yamaha Engine bars, SW Motech Centre Stand, Kappa wingrack three box Luggage with E21's as option from the K960 boxes, Zumo 660 satnav on Touratech mount, Led Voltage monitor, Baglux tank cover, Clear LED Rear light, Aux LED brake light, BikeVis bullet LED's under front nose,Stainless rear axle nut, stainless chain adjusters, stainless wheel spacers front and rear, Probolt Polished Stainless Flanged Hex engine screws, Polished stainless fairing screws, stainless disc bolts. Titanium brake pins front, Probolt Titanium Flanged Hex Front Caliper Bolts & Rear caliper slide pins Adventure Spec Tool tube under rear rack, left and right sides with custom alloy mounts.<p>Top Sellerie double gel pad seat. Carbon Fibre inner dash and side infill panels. Anodised black alloy swingarm pivot bolt covers and footpegs, Nano II Gear indicator.
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