181 replies to this topic

[AzzA]

...

Any thoughts / advice from anyone?

Cheers

Nick

G'day Nick,

go with what's in the manual and what I've posted on the last page.

With your set-up you'll probably find your goal around 2-3 on the left most pot...

use the idle adjustment to set the revs high, at about 2,000RPM 2300RPM, and tweak the pot for the highest idle and smoothest running (it can be very subjective to pick it but use your ears for exhaust note and mechanical noise, eyes for the tachometer, and hands to feel for the vibrations)...

take your time doing the adjustment and blip the throttle every so often while you're doing it and then let it settle again...

when you're done, give it a run to see how you went... repeat the tweaking if necessary... and, if your open road mileage suffers greatly, adjust leaner to counter any undue thirst.

Edited by AzzA, 16 October 2012 - 09:47 am.

[gabby]

Hi. Will get an EJK and experiment I think, but a couple of things concern me. I guess the first is running without the O2 sensor in an open-loop mode and somehow having it run too lean and causing damage. Or is it the case that if it's set up properly, that can't happen?
And if the sensor on the TDM is crap as some say here, is there a better and more reliable sensor available?

[AzzA]

I have wondered if a narrowband 4 wire sensor could be retrofitted; from what I understand the signal voltages are similar. This would ensure the sensor was hot enough to operate as intended. This might improve the situation, for some, but relies on there not being some other problem inherent elsewhere (in the ECU or code/map).

A wideband sensor won't work with the ECU, as I understand them.

Also:

I have observed that on the 2009 Oceania model the air-box flap actuates at 2000RPM, in both increases and decreases of RPM.

This would be why the air-box mod is not proving effective on bikes in that region; as there is no interaction with the 3000-4000RPM range where most riders are experiencing issues.

I can't comment on similar models from other regions; I don't have access to them. This is something owners might check when they're next got their tank raised.

EDIT:

Because of the air-box flap, on later 900's, I would recommend anyone doing a tune with the TFI or EJK to set the RPM's a little higher than the recommended ~2000RPM... say 2300RPM... this should account for your dash tachometer reading low (yes they do, just like your speedometer) and ensure the flap is open.

On earlier model 900's, the air-box flap reportedly opens at 4000RPM so, anywhere ~2000RPM should fine.

If you're not sure when your flap opens, then aim high; say 2300RPM.

Edited by AzzA, 08 October 2012 - 01:40 am.

[Jesse]

Just received and fitted the TFI-1025 unit to my 2002 model. Installed as Azza did behind left fairing and had no difficulties. Set up as per instructions and Azzas advice. Test ride today on my usual route to work. Already seeing a significant improvement, much smoother around roundabouts and in slow traffic. Also much improved acceleration from traffic lights and roll ons. I will report more after a few days.

[TKH]

Good (TF), I ordered one of these but still await delivery

[AzzA]

The following circuit could be used to switch between OEM and the TFI-1025.... a dual mapped TDM900, if you like... this might be handy if you need the TDM to be stock for a moment.



When the switch is in the up position, the TFI is powered on and the O2 sensor is out of circuit... The TDM900 will run modified, with the TFI-1025 setting A/F.

When the switch is in the down position, the TFI is not powered and the O2 sensor is in circuit... The TDM900 should run as OEM, using the O2 sensor to set A/F.

The switch could be waterproofed and mounted under the fairing, where it can be reached but not seen. Handy for EPA or MOT inspections.

I strongly suggest: Turn the ignition and key off before changing modes with the switch.

[TKH]

Aaaand still waiting delivery

I'm keen to see how much it can improve on the manual changes I've made.

Edited by TKH, 17 October 2012 - 10:24 pm.

[AzzA]

Aaaand still waiting delivery

I'm keen to see how much it can improve on the manual changes I've made.

If you bought through eBay, check to see if the vendor provided a tracking number... I bought a pair of boots recently and the vendor supplied the tracking number in "My eBay"... "View Order Details"... I had never seen this until I stumbled upon it. Good luck, wish I could help more but I'm just a consumer too.

What manual changes have you made?

I found that re-balancing the throttle-bodies so that they're at the highest possible vacuum (within range) was beneficial, and increasing the free-play in the accelerator cable also helped to smooth things out.... but the biggest improvement, by far, came from being able to control the A/F using the TFI.

[gabby]

I have an EJK on the way and in preparation for this I removed the airbox mod, so thought I would share an observation. I've had this done for nearly 20,000km and didn't think it made a change when I did it. Any improvement was in my head I reckon. I had also assumed the air flap changeover occurred around 4000 rpm but after Azza said that TDMs in this part of the world were different I checked. Mine operates between 2100-2200. There is some hysteresis in it; ie it's different when increasing and decreasing, but it's always in that range. So that explains why no difference at lower rpm.

But one big thing I noticed on removing it is the improvement in jerkiness off the throttle stop. With the mod done, if I wasn't careful to keep revs off idle in a tight corner I could nearly get tossed off when putting revs back on if applied quickly. With the airbox operation restored to normal there in none of that tendency to buck me off. All very odd, so I will be leaving he modification off regardless of whatever happens with the EJK. Will report on that when it's done. G

[AzzA]

Just reviewed my fuel consumption for the TDUT2012 cake run through the Snowy Mountains... of the 1198 kms that I logged fuel use for I used 64.181 Litres, this was with the Givi E45 panniers on for about half the distance... final figure is 5.357L/100km or 52.731MPG(UK). This would give me around 373 km per tank over similar conditions.

You can use Digital Dutch to convert to your usual ratio LINK.

Bare in mind that this was not your average commute with no load over nice flat ground, this was working it.

[TDMTAM]

You guy really need to stop talking about this, you are just making me want to go buy one!!!!
still thinking on wether to go for the TFI-1025 or the gen 3.5 plug and play version
TAM

Edited by TDMTAM, 18 October 2012 - 08:01 am.

[AzzA]

TBH I don't see much of a difference between the two at the end of the day.

If you're a confident DIY'er, the TFI-1025 is a cheap, relatively simple, and quick installation that only needs the left fairing panel to be removed**... also has the option to be switched between OEM and custom tune, should you wish.

If you're not so DIY inclined, the EJK is a good option to achieve the same endgame... it costs a bit more and the installation is a bit more spanner intensive as the tank must be raised... (but I can't really comment more until I've handled one.)

** if you follow my method not the manufacturers guide.

You guy really need to stop talking about this, you are just making me want to go buy one!!!!
still thinking on wether to go for the TFI-1025 or the gen 3.5 plug and play version
TAM

Edited by AzzA, 18 October 2012 - 08:19 am.

[rscott4563]

The following circuit could be used to switch between OEM and the TFI-1025.... a dual mapped TDM900, if you like... this might be handy if you need the TDM to be stock for a moment.



When the switch is in the up position, the TFI is powered on and the O2 sensor is out of circuit... The TDM900 will run modified, with the TFI-1025 setting A/F.

When the switch is in the down position, the TFI is not powered and the O2 sensor is in circuit... The TDM900 should run as OEM, using the O2 sensor to set A/F.

The switch could be waterproofed and mounted under the fairing, where it can be reached but not seen. Handy for EPA or MOT inspections.

I strongly suggest: Turn the ignition and key off before changing modes with the switch.

This is exactly what I have decided to do with mine, I've fitted it as per your instructions (velcro'd to the ECU and tapped the usual wires however I have left the power (red) disconnected for now until I fit my changeover switch). I'll set it up once the switch is fitted so that I can quickly go from standard to modified to compare how the bike is responding to the changes I'm making.

This is the switch I'm going to be fitting:


With this to keep the water out:


Should be all finished this weekend and I'll report back my findings...

[Jesse]

It's been a few days since installation of the TFI-1025 unit. My excitement is now under control. Very happy with the positive results. I'm really enjoying riding, even through traffic in the morning school children drop off rush. Still need to do some fine tuning. There is a slight rough spot just off idle if the throttle is advanced slowly. I notice it when doing hill starts in slow traffic. No real problem but I would like to get rid of it. Any suggestions? I will try both raising and lowering the first pot and see what happens.

[AzzA]

G'day Jesse,

glad it's worked out for you too.

Have a look at the mfgrs site HERE, it might offer the instructions in a clearer language than I about the nuances of tuning... there's even a naff video.

Things that might be affecting your off idle performance, other than fine tuning of the mixture, are: (Listed in ease of checking)
1. Idle set too low... OEM says 1100-1200RPM... Carpe collective knowledge indicates that higher equals better, so aim for 1200RPM.
2. Sticky Fast Idle Plunger... check to be sure it is returning fully home by pushing it from the LHS... see JBX's terrific TDM site for details, there is even a how to fix it page.
3. Vacuum leak... check the engine to TB mounts and the TB vacuum ports; the left TB should have a small rubber plug on the vacuum port or you might have a chain-oiler attached here; and the air-flap hose on the right TB port.(You can temporarily disconnect anything attached to the vacuum ports and block them using short lengths of hose with a screw/bolt in it, just for the process of elimination.)
4. Throttle bodies out of synchronisation... always The place to start tuning on any multi-intake engine.
5. Intake vacuum pressure set too low... OEM says 33-36kPa... Carpe collective knowledge indicates that higher equals better, so aim for 36kPa. (270 mmHg) This alone improves throttle response. (Do this when you sync the TB's.)

Edit: Drawing longbows now...
6. Spark plug gap.
7. Injectors.
8. Valve train.

Edited by AzzA, 19 October 2012 - 12:41 am.

[Jesse]

Thanks Azza. This is a great forum for fast responses. I will look into all that you have mentioned. Even with this small niggle the 1025 unit has made the bike so much better but now that I've started I want to finish the job properly. I will be checking/ setting the valves this week so will measure plug gaps and redo synchronisation at the same time. New chain and sprockets just arrived too. Plenty to keep me busy for a while!

[OldGit]

Finally got around to fitting mine. Took my time over getting the wiring sorted and the connections made -


and have left the device stuck to the handlebars so I can fiddle with it and get it just right -


I haven't done the idle at 2300rpm thing yet, just connected it, set it to the recommended settings and took it out for a ride.
Seems better already, pulls from 1800rpm no probs, still got an occasional hiccup on very small throttle openenings at very low revs but that could be balancing. All hesitation at 2500rpm or above has gone.
Overall pretty impressed. I am reminded of the time I fitted a Power Commander to a v-strom, it took many attempts loading different maps before I got that right (it used to spit back so hard that the throttle bodies spat themsleves off) so that's why a) I'm pretty pleased and b) I mounted it on the bars for the time being - I'll re-locate it when I'm happy with it.

Thanks to Vallo, and all the other advice on this 'ere forum.

Cheers

Nick

[TKH]

Mine has a tracking code that shows "Accepted".

The mods I've made are:
Airbox mod
Raised the CO by 5 points
K&N airfilter (fitted same time as airbox mod so don't know if it made any difference on it's own).

I tend to get around 52/3mpg with "spirited" riding, mostly short runs though ~10 miles

[AzzA]

Had the bike on the hoist for some suspension mod's and took the time to remove the O2 sensor entirely, and re-tweaked the TB balance (although the shift since the last reading was possibly just instrument error; it was just a pifteenth)... Result... it's even smoother and the exhaust note is more even. Overall, I'm hearing less exhaust but more induction noise whilst riding... unless I stretch the wrist. The Missus has even commented that the bike sounds quieter in the driveway at home. (I have Fuel midi exhausts fitted, and whilst they're not overtly loud they are distinctive.)

The bike is now running every bit as smooth as the Triumph 800 triples I've ridden, but it doesn't need as many rev's to do the same job... and it's still, very much, a twin!


As for the suspension mod's; if I had known the new progressive springs in the front were going to be so much of an improvement I would have done them 38,000kms ago! Seriously, a revelation, money well spent.

[OldGit]

I completed the setup as per instructions supplied and on here, and I had a 115 mile ride out yesterday, bike had just one "hesitation" during the whole ride so I am well pleased. The bike does feel over-fuelled to me though. When properly warmed up it feels just a little hesitant just off idle, and as well as the popping on the overrun which I always had with the MTC cans I goit the occasional backfire type sound, so I'm going to take the Green setting down half a turn at a time until it feels right. It's around 4.30 now which is probably too high.

PS Azza what prog fork springs have you got - Hyperpro?

Ta

Nick