Tdm 850 Oil Pressure Switch Installation Guide
#21
Posted 06 May 2010 - 05:24 pm
Always tell the truth, it will gratify some of the people and astonish the rest. (Mark Twain)
£
Stebel Nautilus air-horn, Corbin seat, MRA Touring screen, single Delkevic silencer.
"I see by your outfit that you are a spaceman"(MkI (3VD) TDM Review)
Hints for using Carpe-TDM. (photo's, links, etc).
#22
Posted 06 May 2010 - 09:08 pm
Normally open will be the position of the contacts when the unit has no supply to it or, as shown by the wiring diagram, when the oil pressure is low. When the ignition is 'on' the low pressure indicator will show. When the engine starts the pressure increases and the contacts close. The light then goes out.
If a wire comes off the light wont initially illuminate when the ignition is on.
It looks like a good mod to me, better than an oil gauge.
#23 Guest_leehenty_*
Posted 06 May 2010 - 10:03 pm
How is works is thus: The pressure switch contacts are open when oil pressure is low. When the engine pumps up the presssure the contacts close and short the led to earth thus turning it off. The resisitor is to current limit the circuit to about 18 ma through the switch. The led is already earthed, so if the wire to the switch comes off the led will light as the led is connecting the resistor to earth.
LED's are like a dead short diode, this is why the 560 ohm resistor is there. It dissapates about 300 mw so, a 1 or 2 watt resistor is ok here.
I made one up so you have three leads from the led. Power from a live that goes on when ignition is on, earth and switch. Red Black and blue. this is for a normally open sensor when there is no oil pressure.
Lee H
Edited by leehenty, 18 May 2010 - 02:12 pm.
#24
Posted 07 May 2010 - 03:56 am
Hope it is useful to everyone.
Hi Lee and Hammerman,
great job
Received the switch yesterday but due to missing time will take some time to mount it following this perfect guide.
Have a great day
Roland
#25
Posted 05 June 2011 - 10:09 pm
During my year or so hear, I have taken advantage of enhancements/additions/mods shared and supplied by Carpedians. Very often the items have been put on my trolley in the garage for dealing with later. Time to fit all these bits and pieces and with guidance like this life is made so much easier.... Brought the switch from Lee in earlier to remind myself of what I needed to do and found this thread!!
Thanks again....and to all the others that keep supplying the invaluable advice, help, ideas, expertise etc
Edited by idlebloke, 05 June 2011 - 10:11 pm.
#26
Posted 05 June 2011 - 10:22 pm
Just did a quick look for a lamp. Fractionally cheaper here http://cgi.ebay.co.u...bb#ht_755wt_905
#27
Posted 06 June 2011 - 05:53 pm
My lamp is a little different. I used a panel lamp with a holder that fits through the front of the hole, but there was no way to secure the locking nut.
I used a soldering iron to melt a small hole through the blanking piece that is discarded if you use rubber lamp holders, and used a cable tie around the wires, to hold the lamp in place. Not a perfect solution but it works.
I took my power from the pilot lamp above the headlamp. I didd this or easy access, in case I ever need to disconnect the +ve due to a short.
Big thanks. Time for cake.
#28
Posted 02 August 2011 - 07:52 am
I fitted an oil pressure gauge a few years ago with a banjo at the same place discussed above. At the top of the crank case feed pipe that goes to the back of the head.
Gauge was one of these in the middle pic: http://www.raceparts...chanical Gauges
I have 23lbs/sq" at tickover when cold & 40lbs/2" when hot at 4000rpm.
On previous oil burning motors when touring I'd watch the pressure drop over a few days and know it was fill up time.
#29
Posted 03 December 2016 - 04:56 pm
just done mine, wanted an OEM look so bought a 12mm oil light which fits right and screws on the black panel.
Edited by drewpy, 03 December 2016 - 05:11 pm.
"As I Lay Rubber down to street, I pray for traction I can keep. But if I skid and begin to slide, please dear god protect my ride"
Mods; Oil pressure switch, neoprene rear inner mudguard, scottoiler, highway pegs, fenda extenda, 1999 carbs and airbox, Kais suspension setup, later clutch springs, LED lamps, Metmachex swingarm, Hagon Shock, Oxford heated grips, 4 way fused accessory Bus, 17" 3CV front wheel, Michellin R6 tyres, GPS speedo, 5' ignition advance.
#30
Posted 09 December 2016 - 06:20 pm
#31
Posted 09 December 2016 - 06:46 pm
"As I Lay Rubber down to street, I pray for traction I can keep. But if I skid and begin to slide, please dear god protect my ride"
Mods; Oil pressure switch, neoprene rear inner mudguard, scottoiler, highway pegs, fenda extenda, 1999 carbs and airbox, Kais suspension setup, later clutch springs, LED lamps, Metmachex swingarm, Hagon Shock, Oxford heated grips, 4 way fused accessory Bus, 17" 3CV front wheel, Michellin R6 tyres, GPS speedo, 5' ignition advance.
#33
Posted 14 December 2016 - 11:01 am
just done mine, wanted an OEM look so bought a 12mm oil light which fits right and screws on the black panel.
Which switch did you use???
could you list all the parts you sourced, how long did it take?
Cheers
Chris.
#34
Posted 14 December 2016 - 12:26 pm
Which switch did you use???
could you list all the parts you sourced, how long did it take?
Cheers
Chris.
contact Lee Henty on here, he supplies the switch kit
http://www.carpe-tdm...showtopic=17013
"As I Lay Rubber down to street, I pray for traction I can keep. But if I skid and begin to slide, please dear god protect my ride"
Mods; Oil pressure switch, neoprene rear inner mudguard, scottoiler, highway pegs, fenda extenda, 1999 carbs and airbox, Kais suspension setup, later clutch springs, LED lamps, Metmachex swingarm, Hagon Shock, Oxford heated grips, 4 way fused accessory Bus, 17" 3CV front wheel, Michellin R6 tyres, GPS speedo, 5' ignition advance.
#35
Posted 14 December 2016 - 12:31 pm
I don't seem to be able to send him a message,
it says guest-lee henty .
#36
Posted 14 December 2016 - 12:56 pm
I don't seem to be able to send him a message,
it says guest-lee henty .
I think I was looking at an old profile....
Message sent
#37
Posted 23 April 2019 - 04:12 pm
I have acquired the Intermotor 50770 switch and found a friend to turn it down to 10 mm for me on his lathe.
Now I also looked at the altetnatives which also feature a 1.4mm hole for the oil to flow through. The Intermotor switch/bolt has a much bigger hole though.
The hole diameter seems to matter as it restricts the oil flow to the head to some extent. As I cannot access the original Photobucket files I remain wondering how you worked around this potential issue?
Edit: I have a TDM850 4TX.
Regards,
Michiel
Edited by MipeTDM, 23 April 2019 - 04:13 pm.
#38
Posted 24 April 2019 - 07:05 am
The hole diameter seems to matter as it restricts the oil flow to the head to some extent. As I cannot access the original Photobucket files I remain wondering how you worked around this potential issue?
The banjo bolt at the other end of the oil pipe has the same part number so has the smaller hole to still regulate.
Edited by Rallyist, 24 April 2019 - 07:06 am.
For a challenging summer try the
Round Britain Rally.....
1993 TDM 850 Mk1 ..... 2008 TDM 900 .... 1975, 1979, 1982, 1992 Goldwings, Scott, AJS, Triumph 5TA
#39
Posted 25 April 2019 - 09:10 am
I'm thinking of adding a Keihin 140 carburettor main jet to the banjo bolt end, that's also a 1.4 mm restriction.
#40
Posted 25 April 2019 - 05:27 pm
It does not protrude too deep, but I'll add a drop of Loctite just to be sure, after cleaning.
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