181 replies to this topic

[rscott4563]

Oh and does anyone know where the best place to get a O2 sensor blanking plug for the exhaust?

Can I just get a standard bolt (like a sump plug) from Halfords or B&Q, anyone know the size needed??

[AzzA]

...

AzzA, quick question for you. When setting your up did you just run your bike without the front fairing on so that you had quick access to the pots to tweak the settings as you were on and off the bike (I'm talking about the Yellow, Red & RPM pots).

Was it easy to setup correctly, i.e. could you easily tell when you had the pot at the correct setting because the changes were quite obvious or were the changes much more subtle and difficult to detect when say turning the Red pot from 1 to 2 and 2 to 3?

Cheers, Ryan

G'day Ryan,

I did the tuning runs without the left fairing, just make sure you've got all your fasteners secure; you don't want to lose any if they're loose. Stick some tape on them if they are, or take them off, but all mine were fine. It helps if you've got close access to clear open roads, but quiet streets are also good enough because you wont need to go over 60kmh to tell if it's good or bad.

I found no major benefit from having any other settings, other than the recommended settings, on the right three pots... but your bike may be different.

The most critical setting is the left most pot; this is your idle and baseline mixture... it will effect performance off idle and through the mid range... you should be able to clean up the chugs at low RPM and get a smooth cruise at any RPM from 2000RPM upwards. This setting can be done in your driveway by finding the fastest and smoothest idle at around 2000RPM, just take your time, and blip the throttle occasionally to ensure everything stabilises. Bypassing the O2 sensor is the required to get this setting to work; the EFI must be running in open-loop.

[arthurbikemad]

Thanks for the reply, I'm a UK dynojet dealer and plan to put my new 2012 on the dyno this month I will be testing the dash co settings to see for myself how they effect afr and checking what the sensors roll is when plugged in and unplugged in the closed loop zone also may fit and map a pc3 too to go with my cans. I'm always interested to see what people like yourself are up too with other tuning products.

Edited by Arthur, 27 September 2012 - 03:26 pm.

[danresh]

Try the recommended setting first, but... I'm not sure the "initial basic set-up" accounts for the O2 sensor being cancelled (they seem a bit vague on that point).

Having had a look at the EJK site, and from what I (think I) know, you will most probably need to set the Green/Blue setting to the lowest point; because when you remove the O2 sensor the engine will lean out from idle upwards.
You will then need to add some to the Green setting, to find the best idle... if you're familiar with carburettors, this setting is like tuning your primary or pilot jets.

The Yellow and Red zones are like main jets and an adjustable accelerator pump. These probably wont need much, or any, changing.

Play with the demo at http://electronicjetkit.com/tuning.asp and you should see what I mean by looking at the graph as you make the changes.

Initial report: Installation was not easy at all and it took some time to understand that one harness is good for the 2 injectors. According to the instructions you need to connect their harness to the injector itself - which, of course, is not the case, as you need to connect to the plague that sits on the mutual harness that joins both injectors.
Then we forgot to disconnect the Minus cable of the battery (the unit just did not respond when the power was turned on..). We then attached the ground wire to the metal frame and it started responding but not as expected (LED colours not flashing as expected). We disconnected the O2 sensor by just unplaguing it. Cancelled air box mod.

Went on test-ride - much worse behaviour at low gear low revs low speed! I suspect something is wrong with the installation as the LED are not flashing in the expected order. emailed manufacturer tech support for advice (gave detailed account) and will wait for their reply...

Danresh

[leehenty]

Oh and does anyone know where the best place to get a O2 sensor blanking plug for the exhaust?

Can I just get a standard bolt (like a sump plug) from Halfords or B&Q, anyone know the size needed??

Most O2 sensors are M18 x 1.5 pitch,

A stainless blanking plug can be obtained here:

http://www.a2stainle...AICFP.aspx?nh=1

[AzzA]

Thanks for the reply, I'm a UK dynojet dealer and plan to put my new 2012 on the dyno this month I will be testing the dash co settings to see for myself how they effect afr and checking what the sensors roll is when plugged in and unplugged in the closed loop zone also may fit and map a pc3 too to go with my cans. I'm always interested to see what people like yourself are up too with other tuning products.

G'day Arthur,

I'm keen to see what your findings are about the workings of TDM EFI; it'd be great to have your access to instrumentation and the knowledge base of an experienced workshop crew. I know we all can, it's just that the price of such bespoke tuning services often come at a level that prevents many of us from doing so... mortgages, kids, GFC's, bad habits, second batch of kids, etc, etc.

I don't expect the TFI-1025 or EJK would ever match the performance gains that a PC3 and a good dyno' tuning session could achieve, but if they can affect a cheap cure to an issue that seems prevalent with the TDM900 then there is an obvious market for them.

Cheers,
AzzA

[AzzA]

Initial report:
...
Went on test-ride - much worse behaviour at low gear low revs low speed! I suspect something is wrong with the installation as the LED are not flashing in the expected order. emailed manufacturer tech support for advice (gave detailed account) and will wait for their reply...

Danresh

G'day Danresh,

Try plugging the O2 sensor back in; I suspect it's running too lean when unplugged. If the EJK is not working, this should return normal running.
Then:
Try to get the EJK sorted before disconnecting the O2 sensor again. I suggest not using the metal frame as the earth point, go to the battery terminal; aluminium frames (and hulls etc.) are notorious for earth loops and strange behaviours when used as a current carrier... you can even end up with galvanic corrosion!
Then:
Once it's all working, disconnect the O2 sensor and adjust the tune to compensate for that.

Cheers,
AzzA

P.S. please let us know what reply you get from the manufacturer and, if you can, please post some pictures of the EJK install... I'm trying to visualise what you've said but it's failing to gel in my mind (but that could be the Jack Daniels)

[rscott4563]

Most O2 sensors are M18 x 1.5 pitch,

A stainless blanking plug can be obtained here:

http://www.a2stainle...AICFP.aspx?nh=1

Thanks for that, just what I needed.

[arthurbikemad]

AzzA cheers and I will report back, I don't think it's a case of gains but more to to ensure that the bikes running the correct AFR, I like to say as a result of correct fuel ratio you may or may not see more power but your torque curve will be better and so will engine life and fuel econ. Anyway you and many others here know all of that. I would like to go over old ground with the Dyno as after reading the many hundreds of questions and answers here when searching power commanders, tuning, exhausts and other key words I've found there to be a few contradictory statements about the sensor and other points of the 900s EFI system. I hope to have some clear answers about the bike I now ride and a full understanding of it, otherwise it will bug the hell out of me.... Technically speaking Dynojet UK and US have done nothing with the TDM since 2007 so they have no interest in the model which IMO is a shame as a PCV and Autotune would have been a nice add on to the bike. But that will not be the case....unless I can find a model that can be cross wired for the TDM unlikely but we've found one before..

[AzzA]

... a PCV and Autotune would have been a nice add on to the bike. But that will not be the case....unless I can find a model that can be cross wired for the TDM unlikely but we've found one before..

I've wondered before if any of the Yamaha twins, e.g. Road Star, would be using compatible EFI systems that would allow plug and play installation... with maybe the odd pin change or plug swap.

I've no doubt that a PCV and Autotune could be hard-wired (not using any OEM plugs), if someone was determined enough, but I presume that base maps would not exist for the TDM... unless the maps for the PCIII are compatible or convertible. (I'm assuming a base map is required by the PCV.)

[arthurbikemad]

Yes PC3 maps can easily be converted and like you say if I can dig out a similar model PCV it's possible to hardwire it to the TDM, Autotune has a programable saftey margin of X% so will correct the base map real time the user then is able to view the corrected table and accept the values, this then adjusts the base map giving another X% of correction available to Autotune this was should the sensor fail the map does not get leaned off so much damage could be caused to the motor.

Anyway this thread is about you and your EFI modul and you've done a fine job sorting your bike. If I get anywhere with my own TDM and PCV I will let you all know, I will do some tests on the TDM to verify sensor activity and the dash CO settings in the next few weeks, UK has no stock of PC3 for another 10 days or so and I'm having to wait for one.

[danresh]

G'day Danresh,

Try plugging the O2 sensor back in; I suspect it's running too lean when unplugged. If the EJK is not working, this should return normal running.
Then:
Try to get the EJK sorted before disconnecting the O2 sensor again. I suggest not using the metal frame as the earth point, go to the battery terminal; aluminium frames (and hulls etc.) are notorious for earth loops and strange behaviours when used as a current carrier... you can even end up with galvanic corrosion!
Then:
Once it's all working, disconnect the O2 sensor and adjust the tune to compensate for that.

Cheers,
AzzA

P.S. please let us know what reply you get from the manufacturer and, if you can, please post some pictures of the EJK install... I'm trying to visualise what you've said but it's failing to gel in my mind (but that could be the Jack Daniels)

Hello Azza, I regret not being able to participate in the professional discussion you are having with Arthur as my level of understanding the TDM tuning issue is far too basic.... However, after a couple of frustrating days I did manage to obtain positive reults from my newly installed Dobeck EJK Part no. 8120094 !

Dobeck Performance Tech Support (from Montana USA) have been very efficient. After getting my description of the installation procedure, they came back to me and said that the unit was actually installed correctly and only the Preset base settings -as exhibited by my bike's performance, were not correct! I suspect the reason for this flaw is that the EJK is preset for TDM 2004-2007 and mine is 2009.

They led me step by step through the procedure of tuning my correct base settings, which I followed and immediately felt the improvement.
In other words, it is really plugg n play followed by a lot of test riding in order to evaluate the results of slowly changing the appropriate settings.

As things stand now, I managed to reduce the surging in low revs and low speed substantially, by raising the level of fueling at the Green Mode = cruise fueling, from Preset position no.3 to position 6.5 and reducing the Idle Switch point position from no.4 to no.1.

Now I can cruise almost totally smoothly at 1800 rpm in 1st gear and at 2000rpm in 2nd gear, which is much better than I managed using the airbox mod! (which is now cancelled)
Moreover, I can circle roundabouts on 3rd gear, without touching the clutch, and open throttle upon exiting the circle to a smooth and powerful acceleration-and that's a totally new experience...

I will keep the to the present settings for the time being until I get used to the bike's new conduct and then re-evaluate the need for any more changes. I am still waiting for Tech support's response as to how much will my new settings raise my fuel consumption.

Linky: www.electronicjetkit.com

Cheers
Danresh

[AzzA]

G'day Danresh,

if you revisit my prior reply, it was as I suspected; you were too lean and the lower cross-over point was too high. It's my opinion that this is because you removed the O2 sensor, and forced open loop operation, whereas the recommended setting was for closed loop (and not a difference between year models as you suggest). The O2 sensor removal is an option to the installation, but on the TDM it's best removed IMHO.

Regardless, I'm glad you've resolved it and now have a TDM that has been transformed... it's a big difference isn't it?!?

If you find after a couple of refills that your fuel consumption is high, try lowering the cruise fuelling until you just start getting a very tiny bit of hesitancy and then just raise it a tiny bit... that seems to be around the optimum for mine at the moment... of course fuel quality, air temperature, altitude, and time of day will all play a roll in the exact setting. Your EJK has more finite (stepped) adjustments than my TFI-1025, but you should still be able to find the sweet spot between performance and mileage... and still get around 400kms per tank.

Your clutch wont know itself from now on; because you wont be on it so often... I'm only on mine when the bike is really cold or I'm trying to crawl so slow that it's getting hard to keep balance.

I'm glad this has worked out for you (too), I suspect there may be a few other converts soon.

Cheers,
AzzA

P.S. Thanks to Lee Henty, for posting the link to the blanking plugs; they take PayPal and Post Worldwide... mine is on the way.

[danresh]

G'day Danresh,

if you revisit my prior reply, it was as I suspected; you were too lean and the lower cross-over point was too high. It's my opinion that this is because you removed the O2 sensor, and forced open loop operation, whereas the recommended setting was for closed loop (and not a difference between year models as you suggest). The O2 sensor removal is an option to the installation, but on the TDM it's best removed IMHO.

Regardless, I'm glad you've resolved it and now have a TDM that has been transformed... it's a big difference isn't it?!?

If you find after a couple of refills that your fuel consumption is high, try lowering the cruise fuelling until you just start getting a very tiny bit of hesitancy and then just raise it a tiny bit... that seems to be around the optimum for mine at the moment... of course fuel quality, air temperature, altitude, and time of day will all play a roll in the exact setting. Your EJK has more finite (stepped) adjustments than my TFI-1025, but you should still be able to find the sweet spot between performance and mileage... and still get around 400kms per tank.

Your clutch wont know itself from now on; because you wont be on it so often... I'm only on mine when the bike is really cold or I'm trying to crawl so slow that it's getting hard to keep balance.

I'm glad this has worked out for you (too), I suspect there may be a few other converts soon.

Cheers,
AzzA

P.S. Thanks to Lee Henty, for posting the link to the blanking plugs; they take PayPal and Post Worldwide... mine is on the way.

Thanks AzzA for the encouraging post. I just ordered the O2 sensor plug.... As for the 400kms per tank - I am afraid this is a tough goal since I do a lot of commuting in heavy traffic in the city, on a daily basis. Whenever I go for a country ride, it's always with top and 2 side cases, so I have no choise but to settle for a higher fuel consumption than yours.

Anyway, I appreciate your support, it is really heart warming to be helped so willinglyby a Carpedian from the other side of the globe.

All the best

Danresh

[AzzA]

You're welcome Danresh,

I thought you were just around the corner, like all the other Carpedians... what's this globe thing you speak of?

Cheers,
AzzA

PS enjoy your new TDM ... I've fallen in love with mine all over again, only it's a more mature and endearing relationship this time; she's grown into a lovely mannered lady with all her curves in the right places.

[danresh]

You're welcome Danresh,

I thought you were just around the corner, like all the other Carpedians... what's this globe thing you speak of?

Cheers,
AzzA

PS enjoy your new TDM ... I've fallen in love with mine all over again, only it's a more mature and endearing relationship this time; she's grown into a lovely mannered lady with all her curves in the right places.

Hi AzzA

Sometimes I certainly wish we were round the corner, unfotunately Israel is stuck in the f*****g Middle East....

As for your rekindled love affair - treat her with the utmost respect, she deservs it... Mine is a Midnight Black stud who welcoms me every morning with a friendly grin, and "an eager to gallop" attitude which is expressed by his thundering 1st gear take-off from his "stable", awakening the neighbours on the way...

Cheers
Danresh

[roys]

hi,

What are the considerations for removing /NOT the O2 input. is it a per bike thing?

[AzzA]

hi,

What are the considerations for removing /NOT the O2 input. is it a per bike thing?

G'day Roys,

I'm not quite sure what you are asking, but I'll try and answer anyway.

The O2 sensor on the TDM is of the crudest type and may not be working as intended if
- you have ever ridden through dust, dirt, mud, or water;
- you have been sold contaminated fuel;
- you have done a lot of miles/kms;
- you got a dud sensor.

If any of the above apply to you, and you can get away (legally or undetected) with not having the sensor connected, then you may benefit from running your TDM in open loop mode IF you can set (control) your Air Fuel Ratio by another method. e.g. a TFI-1025, EJK, PC3, or dash and external CO meter.

If your O2 sensor is not working correctly it is quite possible that your TDM will be running so lean that it exhibits poor low RPM performance.

If you decide to disconnect the O2 sensor, electrically, then you might as well remove it physically... if you so wish.

Hope that covers it.

Cheers,
AzzA

[OldGit]

Ok so have received mine. The bike is a 2002 model, K&N Filter, MTC end cans, Iridium plugs, about 22k miles on the clock, and I have done the airbox mod.
Over 3k revs the bike is fine, it's at lower revs that it's a bit jerky, making town riding a PITA.

I'm intending cancelling the airbox mod, disconnecting the lambda sensor, and start with the Dobeck recommended settings.

Any thoughts / advice from anyone?

Cheers

Nick

[danresh]

I have been riding my 9ner 2009 with the Dobeck system for about 2 weeks. I cancelled the airbox mod and disconnected the lambda sensor. In my case, the recommended setting made the situation worse and the surging at low RPM was more pronounced!

I emailed their Tech support and with their help, managed to tune the bike so that now I can ride almost smoothly at 2000 revs in 1st and 2nd gears. The green mode - cruise fuel, had to be advanced from no. 3 position (initial preset) up to no.6.5 position (out of 8 positions) and I may even raise it in the future to position 7.5 in order to eliminate the surging completely. I am now monitoring the fuel consumption, as it will certainly increase. I also changed the preset Idle switch position from no. 3, to the minimum-no. 1 position.

All the other preset positions were left at their initial settings.

In other words, my advice is to start with the preset settings, but to be ready to fine-tune according to your personal needs and certainly use their support for any questions you may have or problems you may encounter, as they are very helpful.

Good luck
Danresh

P.S mine is the EJK and not the TFI-1025