If I remember correctly, its a significant cut rather than a zero signal. Worth a try for the sake of clicking on a few box values in the map. One of the maps I had for mine had similar done and it was definitely an improvement, although mine has never suffered like some have.
Ejk - Electronic Jet Kit (Alternative To Power Commander)
#21
Posted 04 March 2024 - 11:56 am
2004 Galaxy Blue. Owned since 486 miles.Renthal 755 bars, Bagster tank cover, Oxford heated grips, DL650 hand guards, Double Bubble screen, Scorpion Rad guard, Gel pad insert, HLD undertray, Angry Badger tailtidy, Roadsmart 4s, Givi E21s, E46 topbox, Ohlins shock and YSS cartridge emulators Currently not fitted - PC3, Remus Revolutions.
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#22
Posted 04 March 2024 - 05:49 pm
If I remember correctly, its a significant cut rather than a zero signal. Worth a try for the sake of clicking on a few box values in the map. One of the maps I had for mine had similar done and it was definitely an improvement, although mine has never suffered like some have.
I was going off memory (for what that's worth), I can remember examining the injection pulses with a logic analyser, on <some bike at the time> and definitely had zero fuel on decel, but can't be sure it was the 900.
When I go in under the tank next time I'll check.
900 with better bits. Owes me nothing, Makes me smile
#23
Posted 05 March 2024 - 09:08 am
I might be wrong, but since a PC only piggy backs the ECU fueling, it can't override, only add or subtract.
So when the ECU signals to cut the injectors on zero throttle, the PC can't add anything, because the injectors are essentially shut off. The only way would be to tweak your TPS so it thinks you've always got a very slight amount of throttle active.
As I say, could be wrong though.
#24
Posted 12 November 2024 - 02:36 pm
I bought one of these many years ago:
https://www.amazon.c.../dp/B0184TSI84/
It was probably around ten years ago I got it and it was a fair bit cheaper at around £110. I had a kit car that I put ZX6R carbs on, so needed something I could truly monitor the fueling with, and along with some bike tuning I was doing thought it would be a useful investment. I've used on loads of bikes, even just to check normal running is ok. Worth the investment if you play around with these things now and again.
For carb'ed bikes or things like this with PCs etc it's nice to be able to see what's happening in real time, and even be able to use on the road under load. I use a resistor in the OEM lambda sensor connector to stop issues with the closed loop and just rely on the ECU map being adjusted by the box now.
This is a cheaper brand, but I've never used and with no reviews it would be a punt to see if it was any good.
https://www.amazon.c...5/dp/B0BLRYBBS5
You can also get narrow band sensors very cheap:
https://www.amazon.c.../dp/B0B9GX6DYQ/
I can't vouch for these though, and they really only show if you're rich or lean, which is probably ok just for getting into the right ballpark.
If you're only going to set one of these up a single time, it probably wouldn't cost that much to drop by a tuning shop and get them to tweak it on a dyno or simply with their own gas monitor though. Failing that the old time consuming plug check can always be an option, but as I say it'll probably be ok out of the box.
What nominal of resistor do you use to stop OEM sensor issues with the closed loop?
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Boosh