35 replies to this topic

[mr grumpy 2]

was going to do this, but as i need a new front tyre and the local mechanic will do the fork oil and new tyre (gone back to pilot roads) for £120.

got the bike booked in.

[wicklamulla]

was going to do this, but as i need a new front tyre and the local mechanic will do the fork oil and new tyre (gone back to pilot roads) for £120.

got the bike booked in.

that 120 quids fer the tyres alone or does it include changing the fork oil too ???

[mr grumpy 2]

was going to do this, but as i need a new front tyre and the local mechanic will do the fork oil and new tyre (gone back to pilot roads) for £120.

got the bike booked in.

guess it was both tyre and forks, ride in / ride out service.

think the tyre alone is £80, so £40 for tyre fitting, fork oil and labour.

[wicklamulla]

guess it was both tyre and forks, ride in / ride out service.

think the tyre alone is £80, so £40 for tyre fitting, fork oil and labour.

sounds like a good price to me.

[mr grumpy 2]

sounds like a good price to me.

so how do you rate going from the 10W to 15W oil ???????

many say its best change.

[wicklamulla]

so how do you rate going from the 10W to 15W oil ???????

many say its best change.

i used 15wt oil when i fitted racetech springs/spacers and it makes a difference right enuf. some peeps have reverted to 10wt after trying 15wt cos twas too harsh fer em. try and see.

[Bjørge]

Now there's another way of changing fork oil on Mk1: Unscrew the little screws at the bottom of fork leg and simply drain them - like you did on bikes in the old days...
...then remove the cap and fill whatever amount of oil you need.

Edited by Bjørge, 22 May 2009 - 11:24 pm.

[TenaciousTdM]

Oh for Pete's sake... it's really simple.

Just hold the bike upside down and shake it!

rofl ma ,n1 TR MY LITTLE LADS WANTS ME TO TAKE YOUR IDEA IN TO CONSIDERATION!. M8 i dread to think what he will think when it comes to the car ;-}

[Chappie49r]

Can somebody give me an indication as to front fork oil capacity for a 2008 TDM. I see 545 cc and 127 mm given for the 2004 on. Does this apply for the 2008 model also.

Chappie.

[chrisr]

Most just put half a litre in each leg

[celticbiker]

If you are replacing you will never get it all out so 500 ml will be enough in each leg.
From a strip and rebuild you'll need the extra 45ml

[Chappie49r]

Thanks for the advice guys, should be able to get the job completed in time to see the ALL BLACKS dick the FROGS !!!
CHAPPIE.

[uney9]

Hi Guys, was looking at fork oil change cos i have to do mine.i know it has'nt been done before and have over 40,000 on clock.it's a 2010 plate 900 but noticed on frame plate a 2002 number or something.So to find my year for the air gap.i seek advice.

                                                                                                                                         Thanks. Andrew

[TDM4ever]

Hi Guys, was looking at fork oil change cos i have to do mine.i know it has'nt been done before and have over 40,000 on clock.it's a 2010 plate 900 but noticed on frame plate a 2002 number or something.So to find my year for the air gap.i seek advice.

                                                                                                                                         Thanks. Andrew

 

If the enigine is black, it is a 2007+ (it changed to black in 2007).

 

You can find oil capacity/level here: http://www.tdm-yamah...ex.php?page=FRK

Edited by TDM4ever, 13 October 2017 - 07:15 am.

[stevierst]

Just had to do the fork oil seals on my 9er today as one of them blew, the other was seeping. Tried a couple of methods to get the seals out without a full strip, and using the overfill with oil method and ratchet strap seemed to work on one of the legs, but nothing would work on the other.
I had to do a full strip, but I had to make a tool to hold the valve inside the setanshion before I could disassemble the leg. That’s the bit that took me the longest!
Once I had the leg stripped, the seals were a piece of cake to replace, and the oil level took minutes to measure out. Let’s hope I’ve got it right!

[raceengineer35]

I run SSR Suspension in the UK, depending upon what you need to know I can give certain info out...However there are plenty of things I will not tell you how to do particuarly when special tools are required.

 

However the TDM forks are dead easy..... Crack the lower mount bolt (it should be torqued to 45N), undo fork cap, lift damping rod and the preload nut needs to be held whilst loosening the pinch nut.  If you can get that far then your safe and competent to carry on, lol...

 

Its best to use a heat gun to warm the area around the seals as if you do not there is a high chance you can destroy or damage the fork slide/guide bushes.

 

The forks are damper rod, so pretty basic as basic....  I can upgrade to a decent cartridge for reasonable money or racetech emulators which in the UK are only available thru certain people.

 

www.ssr-suspension.uk