QUOTE("Beancounter")
My bike is due for it's MOT soon and I fear she needs new head bearings 
I've been quoted £120 all in, might seem cheap but I'd rather do the work meself and pocket the cash
Trouble is I have never replaced head bearings and I haven't got the first clue about doing the job.
Had a look at the haynes manual last night and it looks quite complicated what with having to remove the fork legs etc.
Can anyone on here advise how difficult the job really is?
I don't have a garage either, so will be working on the Queen's Highway - not very pleasant at this time of year. Also means I have to get the job done in one day
Would I need to get a paddock stand for the front?
Cheers,
Cam......
I've been quoted £120 all in, might seem cheap but I'd rather do the work meself and pocket the cash
Trouble is I have never replaced head bearings and I haven't got the first clue about doing the job.
Had a look at the haynes manual last night and it looks quite complicated what with having to remove the fork legs etc.
Can anyone on here advise how difficult the job really is?
I don't have a garage either, so will be working on the Queen's Highway - not very pleasant at this time of year. Also means I have to get the job done in one day
Would I need to get a paddock stand for the front?
Cheers,
Cam......
QUOTE("Woody")
Kind of depends on your mechanical skill set and having the correct gear. You can get the races out / in with fabricated & improvised tools but it could be a challenge. The forks have to come off and you have to find some way to support the bike while you work.
Outside in one day? Possible, but I would save yourself the hassle and spend the money. Indoors would be a different story.
Just means you'll have less beans to count......
If you were totally confident you wouldn't be asking the question, and if you're not I wouldn't attempt the job.
Are you sure the head bearings are passed their ubd? Mine was notchy becase someone had over-tightened it!!!
Good luck if you go ahead
Outside in one day? Possible, but I would save yourself the hassle and spend the money. Indoors would be a different story.
Just means you'll have less beans to count......
If you were totally confident you wouldn't be asking the question, and if you're not I wouldn't attempt the job.
Are you sure the head bearings are passed their ubd? Mine was notchy becase someone had over-tightened it!!!
Good luck if you go ahead
QUOTE("dapleb")
Bearings are about £30 worth, so garage is charging you about £90 labour....3 hours work?....I'd say that was fair....I'd also ask for the ole bearings back (including races) to make sure they haven't done a sly one and only changed the rollers.
EDIT: Dunno if I'd fancy doin bearings out in the road. This is the kinda job where the Abba stand or similar saves you a whole load of faffin arooond trying to support the bike. The tools I needed were large hammer, Abba Stand, Pry bar (or any tool with strong large flat face), freezer, 30/31mm socket and ext bar (for driving out old races), bottom section of an axle stand (perfect diameter for driving on the lower race) and a homemade puller to pull the races in straight.
Boop
dapleb
EDIT: Dunno if I'd fancy doin bearings out in the road. This is the kinda job where the Abba stand or similar saves you a whole load of faffin arooond trying to support the bike. The tools I needed were large hammer, Abba Stand, Pry bar (or any tool with strong large flat face), freezer, 30/31mm socket and ext bar (for driving out old races), bottom section of an axle stand (perfect diameter for driving on the lower race) and a homemade puller to pull the races in straight.
Boop
dapleb
QUOTE("dapleb")
Stuck races in freezer overnight...not sure it helped much but hey.
Also should say axle stand bases used to drive on lower BEARING rather than lower race.
Cheers
dapleb
Also should say axle stand bases used to drive on lower BEARING rather than lower race.
Cheers
dapleb
QUOTE("AlanEccles")
When fitting main bearings in 2 stroke crankcases I always freezed the bearings didn't need to heat the casings that way, the bearings just dropped in
They were changed every 10 hours so fitting them so often would tend to take slivers out of the casings each time if they were done at the same temperature
They were changed every 10 hours so fitting them so often would tend to take slivers out of the casings each time if they were done at the same temperature
http://www.carpe-tdm...&highlight=koyo
QUOTE("dapleb")
Just back after some running in miles with the Wickster.....just to clarify, I were runnin in the boike, not Wickster...he were run in many years ago :|
ANYWAYS: mkI cornering at low speed (below 35mph) there is a very noticeable wibbling in the steering......the steering feels heavy, then light, then heavy.....I realise thats a crap description, but its the best oi can do. At higher speeds handling is fantastic, no probs at all.
This may (or may not) be linked to a juddering under heavy breaking (which is either warped discs or as AE suggested, not centralised discs).
Did the obvious thing and checked tyre pressure. I checked the head bearings when the front end was off a few months back (and the boike has recently passed a meticulous MOT test inspection).....though this sounds loike the most loikely.
Only other thing I could think of is a slightly binding caliper (or warped disc pulling the boike)....though neither of the fornt discs are generating excessive heat.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Cheers
dapleb
ANYWAYS: mkI cornering at low speed (below 35mph) there is a very noticeable wibbling in the steering......the steering feels heavy, then light, then heavy.....I realise thats a crap description, but its the best oi can do. At higher speeds handling is fantastic, no probs at all.
This may (or may not) be linked to a juddering under heavy breaking (which is either warped discs or as AE suggested, not centralised discs).
Did the obvious thing and checked tyre pressure. I checked the head bearings when the front end was off a few months back (and the boike has recently passed a meticulous MOT test inspection).....though this sounds loike the most loikely.
Only other thing I could think of is a slightly binding caliper (or warped disc pulling the boike)....though neither of the fornt discs are generating excessive heat.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Cheers
dapleb
QUOTE("dapleb")
Tis indeed the head bearings...borrum ones are absolutely mullered, including race. The twonsk who checked them (me) didn't load the front so turning lock to lock felt fine :roll:
Yamaha wanted £60ish+ VAT for a bearing set. The OEM parts are made by Koyo.....bout £30 for a set.....EXACTLY the same bearings. Charging extortionate prices for parts you have made is bad enough...but for parts you just buy in
Anyways, they are tapered roller bearings, sizes:
Lower 55 x 30 x 17 (ask for the one with a rubber bearing protector).
Upper 47 x 25 x 15
Both bearings are standard sizes and can be found at most bearing retailers.
Removing the borrum race from the frame is fun. Rather than using the Haynes method of using a drift from the top, I found it easier to insert prybar from below into the lip on the race and then feed down a 30mm (or 31mm) with extension bar through the stem and tap (whack) on the pry bar face. That way you don't need to press on the upper race at all with the drift and can tap evenly all the way round.
Boop
dapleb
Yamaha wanted £60ish+ VAT for a bearing set. The OEM parts are made by Koyo.....bout £30 for a set.....EXACTLY the same bearings. Charging extortionate prices for parts you have made is bad enough...but for parts you just buy in
Anyways, they are tapered roller bearings, sizes:
Lower 55 x 30 x 17 (ask for the one with a rubber bearing protector).
Upper 47 x 25 x 15
Both bearings are standard sizes and can be found at most bearing retailers.
Removing the borrum race from the frame is fun. Rather than using the Haynes method of using a drift from the top, I found it easier to insert prybar from below into the lip on the race and then feed down a 30mm (or 31mm) with extension bar through the stem and tap (whack) on the pry bar face. That way you don't need to press on the upper race at all with the drift and can tap evenly all the way round.
Boop
dapleb
